There are growers whose reputations harden into a kind of shorthand, and François Chidaine is one of them. The so-called ‘Pope of Montlouis’ is so synonymous with crafting thrilling Chenin Blanc from Montlouis and Vouvray, it is sometimes easy to forget he crafts some brilliant, great-value wines outside of those two appellations.

Some of the best things happen slowly. Aurélien Laherte is not an overnight success; he took over from his father Thierry and his uncle Christian in 2005 when barely in his twenties. Since that time, through a combination of cutting-edge farming and fearless winemaking, he has now hit a level that compares with the best grower wines in Champagne...

The Rocca family have crafted a brilliant portfolio of 2022 Barbaresco. The wines’ balance, like a tightrope walker over the Tanaro River, and lifted perfumes, are impossible not to love. They are generous, and yet they also possess the poise, finesse, and classical tannins that will appeal to the Piemonte cognoscenti...

Given that Domaine Alain Graillot has stood at the summit of the Crozes-Hermitage appellation for over 40 years—with Maxime Graillot present for half of those vintages—you might assume Maxime is part of the establishment. Far from it. He is one of the most thoughtful and engaging growers we work with, constantly pushing boundaries while eking out every last ounce of quality from his wines. His Syrahs are the epitome of impeccably made Northern Rhône wine: a place where old school values meet cutting-edge technique.

The combination of exceptional terroir, a marginal climate and progressive vineyard management—not to mention quietly understated winemaking—produces mesmerising wines. That is exactly what Pyramid Valley is delivering.

I wonder if there is a smarter buy in Burgundy these days than Dureuil-Janthial? Vincent Dureuil is a superstar, albeit a very quiet one; he works his vines and keeps his head down. He does not talk much. Whenever his name comes up in conversation with other great growers, everyone nods and talks about how remarkable his wines are and how much they love them. Remember that old Coche quote?