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Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.
Bibendum Wine Co.

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Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2020

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Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2020
Producer Domaine Ponsot
Region, Country Morey-St-Denis, France
Bottle Size 750ml
Case Size 6
Product Code 24007-750

Bill Nanson says this is the “standard-bearer of the iconoclasm of the domaine”, and he is right on the money. It’s a remarkable and ageworthy 1er Cru that is unique on several levels. Not only is it a monopole, but this was, for a long time, the only 1er Cru white in Morey-Saint-Denis (Dujac now also makes a white Monts Luisants, but not from the clos). It also remains the only 1er Cru in all of Burgundy that is 100% Aligoté (and ancient Aligoté at that). At different times in this vineyard’s history, there have been small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges (a white mutation of Pinot Noir—a sort of Pinot Blanc, if you like) in the blend. But from 2004, it returned to its origins of 100% Aligoté, mainly from a selection of vines planted in 1911. Today, the wine commemorates these ancient plants with the Vieilles Vignes designation. Since 2015, a parcel of younger-vine fruit makes up 20% of the blend and has lowered the average age to around 90 years.

The grapes are pressed in Ponsot’s pneumatic press, fermented in tank and barrel, and then aged in neutral oak (all barriques between 10 and 60 years old). The 2020 is a truly great vintage of this wine: textured, layered and yet with stunning mineral freshness and drive. Terrific saline length! Simply a great white Burgundy and great wine of place—we defy anyone to pick the variety blind.

Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2020

Reviews

“The historic portion of this vineyard - 80% - was planted with Aligoté in 1911. Since the younger vines achieved a quality level worthy of the Premier Cru status, the "Très" has been removed from the "Vieilles Vignes" on the front label. That's admirably honest since such a substantial portion of the wine still is from century-year-old vines. The wine is bright and focused on the lemon-lime scented nose. Lovely and layered flavors of pear, honeydew melon, pluot and grated spices give the lightly creamy palate a compelling moreish-ness. Minerally and lifted, this is already irresistible.”
95 points, Christine Canterbury, Tim Atkin Burgundy Special Report
“80% comes from the famous 1911 planting. This has an excellent bouquet, the age of the vines is disguising anything vegetal in the Aligoté. Superb purity and density across the palate, a tingling limestone freshness at the back and excellent persistence. Nothing blocky about this, a good year for Monts Luisants. A touch of almond paste at the finish.”
92-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“Aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon and freshly baked bread introduce the 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, taut and inactive wine that's racy and concentrated, concluding with a long, mineral finish.”
92-94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

Reviews

“The historic portion of this vineyard - 80% - was planted with Aligoté in 1911. Since the younger vines achieved a quality level worthy of the Premier Cru status, the "Très" has been removed from the "Vieilles Vignes" on the front label. That's admirably honest since such a substantial portion of the wine still is from century-year-old vines. The wine is bright and focused on the lemon-lime scented nose. Lovely and layered flavors of pear, honeydew melon, pluot and grated spices give the lightly creamy palate a compelling moreish-ness. Minerally and lifted, this is already irresistible.”
95 points, Christine Canterbury, Tim Atkin Burgundy Special Report
“80% comes from the famous 1911 planting. This has an excellent bouquet, the age of the vines is disguising anything vegetal in the Aligoté. Superb purity and density across the palate, a tingling limestone freshness at the back and excellent persistence. Nothing blocky about this, a good year for Monts Luisants. A touch of almond paste at the finish.”
92-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
“Aromas of citrus oil, confit lemon and freshly baked bread introduce the 2020 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Blanc, a medium to full-bodied, taut and inactive wine that's racy and concentrated, concluding with a long, mineral finish.”
92-94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

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