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Biodynamic. Weinbach is one of the very finest domaines for this grape variety in Alsace. The style stands out for its purity, balance and savouriness—and for the lack of overt, confected notes that mark so many examples. Restrained focus is the theme. At the northern limit of Altenbourg, the terraced slopes of Furstentum rise swiftly from 300 to 400 metres at the top of the Mont de Sigolsheim. This steep, south-facing slope is one of the great terroirs for Gewürztraminer in Alsace. The soil is brown clay full of limestone, with a pebbly structure that holds both moisture and warmth. Crafted from low-yielding 90-year-old vines, as always, this terroir has produced a remarkable, textural Gewürztraminer in 2021. In a word – wow. An intricate nose of honeysuckle, blossom and exotic florals gives way to an opulent mouthfeel studded with delicious candied orange notes and juicy ripe peach. The finish is dense and pure, with a bead of balancing acidity and overt minerality. The balance is sublime, and the length is detailed and refreshing, finishing with more sweet/sour orange fruits. No one does Gewürz quite like this. With roughly 48 g/L residual (balanced by structure and freshness), this would be brilliant with terrine, pâté and, again, many styles of Asian cuisine—more specifically, chilli crab or other spicy seafood dishes. Of course, it’s also a winning match with Munster or Époisses (or most washed-rind cheeses).