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Nestled in an elevated valley behind Auxey-Duresses, Ponsot’s rugged, stony source vineyard is typical of Saint-Romain’s cool, limestone-rich terroir. And yet the wine offered here is far from typical, with a texture, complexity and seduction rarely seen from this appellation. A mésange is a small songbird, and this bird can sing. Now bunch-pressed and vinified with more solids, the wine is a vibrant but layered, generous white Burgundy. Like most Saint-Romain, it is delicious young and recommended to be drunk over the first five years of its life. As this has always come from a vineyard not owned by the domaine, the Ponsot family now labels it Maison.