Domaine Ponsot Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Monts Luisants Vieilles Vignes Blanc 2021

Bill Nanson calls this “standard-bearer of the iconoclasm of the domaine”, and he is right on the money. It’s a remarkable and ageworthy 1er Cru that is unique on several levels. Not only is it a monopole, but this was, for a long time, the only 1er Cru white in Morey-Saint-Denis (Dujac now also makes a white Monts Luisants, but not from the clos). It remains the only 1er Cru in all of Burgundy that is 100% Aligoté (and ancient Aligoté at that). At different times in this vineyard’s history, there have been small quantities of Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges (a white mutation of Pinot Noir—a sort of Pinot Blanc, if you like) in the blend. But from 2004, it returned to its origins of 100% Aligoté, mainly from a selection of vines planted in 1911. Today, the wine commemorates these ancient plants with the Vieilles Vignes designation. Since 2015, a parcel of younger-vine fruit makes up 20% of the blend and has lowered the average age to around 90 years. The grapes are pressed in Ponsot’s pneumatic press, then ferment in tank and barrel before aging in neutral oak (all barriques between 10 and 60 years old). Simply a great white Burgundy and great wine of place—we defy anyone to pick the variety blind.