Mengoba Bierzo Brezo Mencía 2021

Pérez’s entry-level Mencía comes from multiple remote parcels of 30- to 60-year-old vines dotted around the slate-rich hillsides of Valtuille and Villafranca del Bierzo. The blend also takes in a splash of Godello and Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet)—a legacy of the traditional make-up of Bierzo’s vineyards. Pérez destemmed 90% of his fruit in the pursuit of something pure, refreshing and juicy, and the wine fermented wild in stainless-steel tanks. Bottled early to capture all that joyous, mouth-watering Mencía character, this is an excellent port of call if you fancy a detour from Cru Beaujolais or Loire Cabernet Franc.

Pérez's 2021 release has got everything we look for in a wine from the easy-drinking leagues: authenticity, refreshment and fun, with a large side order of place. Putting the value to one side, the great achievement here is that the striking fleshiness of fruit is finely offset by the bright, fresh structure—a balance reflective of the altitude and the diurnal contrast (warm days followed by cold nights). Filled to the brim with sleek and vibrant fruit, it’s a deliciously animated Mencía. Full of succulent verve, gravelly tannins lend length and gravitas. A real charmer.