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Organic. Gutswein is the base classification in the VDP for wines blended from estate fruit. Müller-Catoir does not typically export this wine; instead, it bottles it in one-litre format to sell to local restaurants. Some years ago, we spied some in the winery and insisted on tasting it. After years of asking, we were finally delivered our first small parcel of this juicy offering in 2011. Drawn from the 2022 vintage, this wine is a blend of Riesling (at least 85%) with lesser amounts of Rieslaner, Scheurebe and Weissburgunder (Pinot Blanc). Even at this level, the fruit is hand-harvested, mainly from the estate’s valley-floor holdings, and as always, this offers excellent value. Crammed with pithy lime, rocky salinity and lovely white floral notes, it’s a fleshy one with surprising depth of flavour and texture balanced by whiz-bang vibrancy and mouthwatering structure. On Bibendum’s deliciousness scale, this wine scores order-another-bottle out of 10.