Arnoux-Lachaux Grand Cru Romanée-Saint-Vivant 2021

This is from a 0.35-hectare parcel that could hardly be better situated—bordering La Romanée Conti and La Tache/La Grande Rue and next to the vines farmed by Cathiard. The Arnoux and Lachaux families have worked this site since 1928 and are justly famed for the resulting wine. The 95-year-old vines are rooted in rich, rocky clay and are now managed organically, with ploughing by horse, Poussard pruning, no trimming, and so on. In short, this is an RSV grown with zero compromise—self-evident when you visit the parcel. Lachaux’s RSV is a wine that Jasper Morris MW has described as the “quintessence of Vosne Romanée”. The price is obviously high (though not nearly as high as the secondary market), reflecting the wine’s extreme rarity, quality and sought-after nature. The 2021 is such a tightly wound, backward, muscular wine. It’s an incredibly powerful expression of the vintage and terroir, showcasing the power of old vines and low yields. It’s dark-fruited yet floral and lifted with black cherry, rose petal and spice. This is not your airy, delicate RSV; this is structured, tight and in need of time and air. An intense RSV for the ages.