Domaine de Marcoux Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2020

Christened by Robert Parker as “one of the world’s truly magnificent wines”, this rarity is one of the most limited and sought-after wines of Châteauneuf. The fruit comes from two crown-jewel parcels of exceptionally old vines in Charbonnières and Les Esqueirons. Charbonnières (planted in 1900) lies on the northern side of the Crau plateau, mostly on sandy soils with molasse sandstone. The vines are nearly all Grenache with a few rows of Mourvèdre. The plot in Les Esqueirons lies behind the ruins of the famous château on the western side of the hill. Here the Grenache vines (and some Roussanne) are rooted in limestone and white clay. Some were planted in 1900 and the rest in 1949.

The fruit was treated in the same minimalistic fashion as the Classique. Thus, what you taste over and above that wine simply reflects the fruit of these ancient vines and their terroirs. There was no new oak used throughout the élevage; the wines were naturally fermented and raised for 18 months in concrete and large oak foudre before being bottled unfiltered. The Vieilles Vignes is only bottled in great vintages, which in a way, says it all.