Byrne Farm Chardonnay 2021

Certified organic. The Chardonnay is sourced from three plots within the Balmoral block at Nashdale, with volcanic chocolate ferrosol soils at 880 meters altitude, on the northeast-facing slope of Mount Canobolas. At almost 30 years of age, these are some of the oldest vines in the region.

The fruit was hand-picked in early April, marking a return to normal picking times (the 2019 harvest was in February). It was then whole-bunch pressed to French oak puncheons (500 litre) for primary fermentation. Byrne used 30% low-impact new oak—a very tight-grain, steam-bent barrel from the Mâconnais region of Burgundy—which helps lift and focus the fruit without adding overt flavour. This year the wine went through 20% malo to give texture and to round out some acidity. It rested in oak for nine months, with bâtonnage every three weeks before blending and bottling.

Flush with fleshy citrus, preserved lemons, chalky salinity and some lovely struck-match reduction, it’s neat and compact with just the barest hint of opulence on the lengthy, driven close. Textbook cool-climate Chardonnay, and great bang for your buck. Make mine a double.