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Tom Puyaubert has long been a cheerleader for Graciano grown in Rioja’s Atlantic-influenced terroirs (which comprise barely two percent of total plantings). The small parcel, within the existing, old vine La Mimbrera vineyard, was planted at 5,000 vines/ha and holds sentimental value for its grower; it was the first vineyard Puyaubert planted in Ábalos.
Destemmed and naturally fermented in old oak, the wine spent two weeks on skins and aged for 18 months in the same, 600-litre barrel.
The nose is on point with a delicious high-toned perfume of blue fruit, fig, violet, pepper and spice. In the mouth it beats with vitality, with elevated acidity and chalky tannins cascading around a core of silky and fleshy floral-flecked fruit. It has complexity to burn, so give it a good decant if drinking young. It’s a fabulous wine that had us craving a dish of braised beef or a fillet of venison.