Santiago Ruiz Rías Baixas O Rosal 2022

The O Rosal sub-region is the most southerly in Rías Baixas, sited along the Portuguese frontier on the basin of the river Miño and extending from the Atlantic coast inwards towards the town of Tui. The vineyards are planted on terraces on the banks of the river on alluvial soils. Spread across the exposed sunny slopes of Tomiño and mimicking the traditional blend of an O Rosal wine, Santiago Ruiz’s vines are devoted to guyot-pruned plantings of Albariño, Loureiro, Caíño Blanco, Treixadura and Godello (in decreasing order).

A wine labelled with the sub-regional designation of O Rosal must contain Loureiro, and here (where the component hovers around 10%) the controlled yields of the variety bring ripe citric drive and notes of blossom to the blend. With an unusually high percentage of Albariño this year, the 2021 weighs in at 76% Albariño, 11% Loureiro and 5% Treixadura, with the balance Caíño Blanco and Godello. Each variety fermented individually and was raised for six months on lees in stainless steel before blending and bottling.

To put it plainly, this is a lovely, invigorating Spanish white. Fresh lime combines with slightly more tropical notes than the 2020, all fringed with salty lemons. Driving acidity, rocky grip and mineral drive are balanced by a supple mouthfeel and a long-lasting close.