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The Clos de Cuminaille is one of the most privileged sites of Saint-Joseph. It’s an east-facing, walled vineyard on Chavanay’s pure granite soils and produces one of the most distinctive wines of the appellation each year. When Gaillard bought this three-hectare site, he passed on the chance to buy a slice of the now-renowned La Turque vineyard in Côte-Rôtie, a site he helped plant. He simply felt that Clos de Cuminaille was better. The vines here are now more than 30 years old, and the winemaking is no different from the Saint-Joseph—save for a touch more new oak (a well-integrated 25% this year).
As always, this is a much more textural and polished experience compared to the regular Saint-Joseph cuvée. It’s pulpy and layered with juicy plum and pastille fruit, scored by hints of grilled herbs and sappy, northern Rhône spice. It carries the refreshing signature of the vintage with style and substance. Not the power of 2020, for example, but that’s all the better for drinking young.