Byrne Farm Pinot Noir 2019

Certified organic. The Pinot Noir is sourced from the Springvale block, southwest of Orange just outside the town of Cargo. This is believed to have been the first certified organic vineyard in NSW and, again, the vines are some of the oldest in the region at roughly 30 years. The vineyard is comprised of Abel and 115 clones, all on their own roots at an altitude of 820m.

Byrne has worked with fruit from this site for a dozen years and in most years works solely with the Abel clone, which he prises for its Christmas spice perfume. The fruit was hand-picked, and the ferments included 20% carbonic maceration and 20% whole bunches. Malo and maturation occurred in French oak puncheons (500L). Barrels were topped up monthly, and the wine was bottled after 10 months.

The style here is all about brightness, crunch and varietal purity. Byrne is looking to pick in the high 12ºs/ low 13ºs, and the result is a far cry from the overworked Otago-inspired Pinots that defined Orange’s early experience with Pinot Noir. As a Burgundy lover and having worked in Vosne-Romanée, Byrne’s conversation is peppered with Burgundian references. Due to the warmer growing season, he sees 2019 as more of a Côte de Beaune style. It leaps out the glass in swirls of luminous red fruit, spice, earth and perfumed florals. It’s medium-bodied and slinky with superb texture supported by a tight frame of feathery light tannins, mineral line and bags of energy.