Champagne Laherte Frères Ultradition NV (Base 2021, Disg. Feb 2024)

Disgorged February 2024. Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group” by Galloni, Ultradition is made from biodynamically grown fruit. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, making up 40% of the blend, and 60% comprises barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, with the fruit drawn from seven different parcels across the Coteaux Sud d’Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels, including two 50-hectolitre Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic conversion is partially completed (around 60-70% on average). Based on the 2021 vintage with 40% reserve wines from 2020 and 2019, this bottling was disgorged with a dosage of 4.5 g/L (extra brut).

This is a top-value grower wine – bright, pure and juicy with loads of delicious redcurrant, floral and apple-skin Meunier fruit. A hint of spice adds complexity, and the finish is bright as a button, driven by zesty, mineral length. The quality delivered for this price is outstanding.