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En Remilly is another of the Lamy benchmarks. Above the Côte de Beaune’s Grand Cru vineyards, it produces one of his finest and most sought-after wines. Olivier has two hectares in this vineyard (planted in 1989) across two distinct parcels just above the Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru. One of these parcels is quite near his Clos de la Chatenière vines and is a warmer terroir on a loosely knit mix of clay and limestone. The second is a far rockier site, on almost pure limestone, directly adjacent to Chevalier. This latter parcel brings a cutting tension to the former’s fleshy, layered fruit. As always, there is a step up in dimension, texture and power. Although generous, the characters remain cool and mineral with iodine, brine and lemon oil, and the finish is long, tightly wound and chalky. Great, great wine.