Domaine Hubert Lamy Saint-Aubin 1er Cru Les Murgers des Dents de Chien 2021

A murger is a pile of stones or a wall made from rocks extracted from a vineyard’s soil. So, ‘a wall made up of dog’s teeth’ is how you could translate the name of this vineyard. It evokes the fragmented, jagged stones that abound here. This rocky, hillside vineyard borders the 1er Cru Puligny vines of Champ Gain, and it sits above the Montrachet Grand Cru—so it’s very well positioned. The vines were planted in 1985 and are typically affected by millerandage, resulting in low yields and more density. Lamy has only 0.25 hectares, so it stands to reason that we only get a few cases. This high-altitude site gives a wine of surprisingly silky texture and depth, yet—as with all the Lamy wines—you’ll find plenty of intense, chalky minerality, too. Always brilliant.