Mengoba Estaladiña 2021

This obscure variety only just managed to stave off extinction in Bierzo. Traditional thinking suggested that Estaladiña is none other than Jura's Trousseau, more commonly known in northern Iberia as Bastardo or Merenzao. Today, some growers are not so sure; the vines and their grapes look different enough to warrant a challenge to the conventional viewpoint. In modern history, this pale-skinned grape has become rare enough to drop off the list of permitted D.O. varieties in Bierzo—something hard to rationalise as you taste this beautiful, floral, red berry--scented highland red.

Pérez’s wine is drawn from one of Bierzo’s few remaining Estaladiña vineyards in the Alto Bierzo, planted 35 years ago in the poor clay, rocky soils of Cacabelos at 540 metres above sea level. The winemaking has evolved in lockstep with Pérez’s understanding of this rare variety. The fruit is now picked earlier, while maceration is more infusion than extraction. Grapes are foot-trodden and ferment as whole bunches in two 400-litre terracotta jars. The wines are raised in the same vessels for 10 months with no added sulphur.

The result is a beautiful, floral and delicately spicy expression of the Bierzo highlands and something completely unique. Pérez has nailed this one. Flavours of crushed red berries and wildflowers float across a lacy palate that strikes excellent tension between crisp acidity and light, tender tannins. It finishes with tangy-berry deliciousness and impressive persistence. Elegance, perfume and charm: this has it all. Burgundy and Jura lovers will not be disappointed!