Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero Crianza 2020

Having proven in the mid-1980s (with Pesquera) that you didn’t need to be Vega Sicilia to produce world-class wine in Ribera, Alejandro Fernandez established a second property on the steep banks of the Duero between Roa and La Horra. Abandoned for years, the slope consisted of hundreds of small parcels with separate and stubborn ownership. Following three years of persuasive consolidation, Condado de Haza christened its first vintage in 1988.

Condado de Haza is located in the province of Burgos, known for its rocky soils and cooler sub-climate. It has a different soil type and higher elevation than its sister property Pesquera, and the microclimate here is tempered by its proximity to the river. Hot days drive the ripeness, while the cold nights maintain high acidity, resulting in fleshy wines that nonetheless remain fresh and sappy. Where Pesquera’s wines are fine, compact, and bloody, those from Condado de Haza are typically plump, more textural and have more rugged structures.

The winemaking here largely mimics that at Pesquera: late harvesting by hand; natural fermentation; vinification by parcel; 18 months in barrique; and bottling without filtration. Layers of dark fruits, charred wood, old spice and Iberian pork envelop a svelte, velvety mouthfeel and a polished tannin profile. As might be expected, oak plays an integral role, but while present, it is in no way overplayed. A crowed-pleasing pleasure to drink now, it will continue to harmonise over the next five or more years.