Champagne Suenen Chouilly Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Le Mont-Aigu 2016 (Disg. Jul 2022)

Suenen crafts just a single 600-litre demi-muid of this cuvée. It originates from a parcel of particularly low-yielding vines planted in Chouilly’s renowned Le Mont-Aigu terroir, near the Cramant border on the Butte de Saran. Now more than 45 years of age, these old vines suffer from fanleaf virus, resulting in tiny leaves, roots and bunches. Coupled with skeletal soils (just 35 cm of topsoil over pure chalk), this results in a deep yet compact expression of Chouilly that is unlike any other. Expect flesh and concentrated ripeness yet also chiselled structure and intense, saline minerality.

Suenen’s 2015 fermented naturally and aged for nine months in a single 600-litre Stockinger barrel. It then spent more than five years in bottle before disgorgement in July 2022. Following a dosage trial (the standard practice here), it was topped with 4 g/L.