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Where There is Smoke: Rare Japanese Whiskies from a Cult Hokkaido Distillery
When distillation began here in 2016 Akkeshi was the first new Whisky distillery to open in Hokkaido for around 80 years. In a nutshell, the company’s founder, Keiichi Toita, has set out to recreate the quality and style of his beloved Islay malts, but in Japan. Based in the small fishing town of Akkeshi, the site was chosen due to its proximity to the sea and access to the clean pure water of the Homakai River. Here, Toita-san is has found environmental similarities to Islay in Scotland, and even the water used in the production has passed through a layer of peat.
Every element of the distillery’s equipment (including two pot stills by Forsyths), process and source ingredients has been selected to match Islay’s top distilleries.
Akkeshi’s first releases were modelled around a ‘New Born’ foundations concept, and was followed, in early 2000, by the first Akkeshi single malt: Sarorunkamuy. Now, we are within the midst of Akkeshi’s 24 Sekki series, which refers to Japan’s 24 divisions of the solar year. These releases vary in style and origin, and often mirror the personalities of the seasons they represent. We have seen blended and single malt Whiskies in this range, with both imported and Hokkaido stocks. All batches are extremely small, and every bottling is totally unique, although each carries Akkeshi’s signature briny freshness and always that element of peat. With older spirits now coming into play, Akkeshi will be one to watch.
On the nose, Akkeshi’s trademark peat notes sit behind complex sweet aromas of toffee, orange rind, cocoa butter and malted milk, with nuances of flax and lanolin. On the palate, it’s big and round, with explosive flavour. Pineapple and dried mango fruit flavours rise before chocolate and a waxing fresh tide of tarragon, mint and white pepper. Delicious.
This is signature Akkeshi, with fresh yet savoury/saline peatiness positioned at the forefront. A hot-blooded blend, this changes constantly in the glass and is best without water. Secondary notes of spun sugar and tropical fruit are joined by deep citrus, burnt sage and green almond notes in the mouth. It finishes spicy, salty and long.
Multiple awards at World Whiskies Awards and SF World Spirits Competition.
Country
Japan
Primary Region
Hokkaido
People
Keiichi Toita
Availability
National
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