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Flavour-packed Gins From a Kyneton-based Distillery
Animus was founded in 2015 by a group of Whisky lovers (Luke Jacques, Joel Wilson, Rob Turner and Aaron Robinson), who decided to produce Gin while waiting for their Whisky to mature in barrel. This Kyneton-based distillery initially began working out of a Fitzroy North garage. Thanks to the quality of their early Gin releases, the operation quickly outgrew this space and has now relocated to a bespoke distillery and cellar door in Kyneton. The key indicators of quality here include the unique freshness of the botanicals used, the pure, carbon-filtered grain spirit, the 100% vapour-pressed distillation and the overproof bottling at 50% ABV. This is where these distillers find their Gins really hit the sweet spot, showing lifted perfume, pristine flavours, creamy texture and integrated spirit. And this is absolutely what you get in the glass.
It’s hard to appreciate the scale of this artisan Kyneton distiller until you visit the premises. Until very recently, this was a distillery like no other: there seemed hardly room to swing a cat, let alone craft the complex Gins that are the specialty of this house. So, the move to a new purpose-designed site has not come a moment too soon. In what is a refinement of progress rather than simple expansion this sees the previous Piper Street distillery/bar site take on the sole responsibility of cocktail bar, while the new shed just around the corner has room for (amongst other things) a shiny new still. Not only does the space allow the now-full-time distilling duo of Luke Jacques and Sarah Wallace to progress their vapour-pressed Gin distilling work (remember, Animus’ botanical baskets are refreshed every two hours), but they are now also free to get their Whisky programme up and running. Then there is a new space for barrel storage (for their barrel-aged Gin, and later for Whisky), and the troops have set about re-establishing their botanical gardens in greenhouses across Sarah, Luke and Rob’s own homes. Despite these changes, Animus proudly remains a boutique operation. All the production is strictly small-batch and crafted with an obsessive, hands-on approach that is more than rare in the industry. The scale allows Animus to subtly moderate their methods with the flux of seasons and the botanicals they provide, meaning the Gins can still be appreciated for both their parallels in quality and differences in nuance—expression and evolution that shows in every drop.
While much has changed (the expansion of digs and semi-retirement of the original tiny 50-litre still in favour of a larger, state-of-the-art model), some things have not changed at all. The last time we visited Kyneton, Luke Jacques greeted us with hands ochre-stained from peeling a small mountain of fresh turmeric for his three core Gins, while Wallace danced in carrying a sack of lemon myrtle freshly picked from the distillery garden. When we talk of the core elements that make these Gins so singular, it’s still the unique quality and freshness of the botanicals that take precedence: growing and sourcing the finest ingredients remains an obsession at Animus. Then there’s the precise and potentially crazy 100% vapour-pressed distillation, where uniquely, the botanical basket is recharged multiple times during the run to capture as much intensity and fresh-picked flavour as possible.
There is genius here. This is Animus’s ode to Australia’s love affair with South East Asian flavours. It's a zesty, spicy, Gin that has an effortless, almost fluffy texture across the palate. There are bright, tangy notes thanks to fresh mandarin, lime and young kaffir lime leaf. The punchy, fresh ginger and galangal bring rooty intensity and earthy, spicy notes, while the inclusion of white sesame seeds adds to the body and leaves a nutty hint on the finish. What could have been a chaotic roar of flavours is in fact a beautifully pure, perfectly integrated, uncluttered Gin with everything in delightful proportion. We've not tasted anything like it to be honest. Really special.
Straight up, you’ve got layers of apricot, marmalade, cocoa butter and coconut giving way to mouth-filling pear and pineapple notes, burned sugar and then heat and spice wrapped around a robust structure. When diluted with water or ice, chocolate-orange, herbs and vanilla come to the fore, serving to broaden and soften the complexity of the flavour. There’s so much going on here, yet the Gin’s balance and harmony is certain to stimulate a bartender’s creative juices—an example of the versatility on offer here is Animus’s Flor de Roble Gin made with Fino Sherry, Falernum, lime juice, bitters and coffee beans.
Originally designed as a homage to the best London Dry Gins, Animus’s Macedon Dry took on a life of its own when lemon myrtle and mountain pepperberry were added to the rich, juniper-led base. These Australian natives add a subtle, citrus and piquant edge, while dialling up the aromatic complexity. You don't have to look hard to find the freshness provided by the ingredients harvested from the distillery’s Gin garden. These botanicals also add brightness and intensity. We love the classic juniper, sappy freshness and spice running through the smooth, deep texture. The cream always rises to the top and this has the depth, complexity and balance of an Australian classic.
In such a simple recipe, there are few places to hide, and here, the sheer quality of the ingredients used shines brightly. Complex layers of berry fruits, dark chocolate and Christmas cake spice work with the clean citrussy notes of the Macedon Dry base, all coming together to form a balanced, morish and stylish local coffee liqueur. Amp up your Espresso Martini or Irish Coffee or pour liberally over ice cream for a delicious twist on an Affogato.
The base is a lemon-forward, Christmas spice-heavy variant of Animus Macedon Dry. The added citrus and spice have worked wonders with the subtle wine and oak notes picked up in the barrels. Deliberately bottled overproof at 55.9% ABV this Gin has an incredibly long and oily finish. Drink it neat, on ice with some lemon zest or mix to your heart's content, there's plenty of interest to play with here
Country
Australia
Primary Region
Macedon Ranges, Victoria
Availability
National
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