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Armagnac is Back: Breathing New life into France’s Oldest Spirit
Driven by the energy from eighth-generation Cyril Laudet and his wife Julie, Château Laballe has emerged as one of this historic region’s most progressive houses. Laudet took over the family Domaine in 2007, determined to bring the oldest of French agricultural spirits back in line with what is considered best practice in other regions. There has been a considerable shift towards improving the quality of the base material, to the extent that many of Laballe’s vines are now farmed biodynamically. Then, intent on bringing great Armagnac to a broader audience, Laballe has forged a brilliant and authentic range of blended spirits for the bar trade as well as grape-specific bottlings.
At a time when contemporary drinkers are crying out for spirits of authenticity, heritage and character, Armagnac is well poised to tap into the zeitgeist. Here is an organic Estate that not only makes outstanding brandy but also controls every step of production from vineyard to bottle. When it comes to distilling and aging, there are no plans to sacrifice the authenticity of Armagnac’s time-honoured traditions which impart such impressive flavour and character into their spirits. For example, the Domaine still uses the same cart-mounted, wood-fired, copper still that has been in operation since 1923. With this ancient still, the temperature varies significantly during the distillation, imparting extra character to the Armagnacs, as opposed to gas stills which operate at a constant temperature. The spirits then age in Chêne Noir Gascon, the 410-litre barrels made of oak from the nearby Landes Forest.
Alongside crafting an exciting range of Armagnacs for the bar trade, Laballe manages an enviable collection of aged stocks going all the way back to 1888. Great, aged Armagnac can convey a deep sense of place in a manner that is rare in the spirits world, and Laballe’s fabulous examples are loaded with personality, fine textures, and flavours that echo across the palate. The extended maturation within thick-grained oak imparts plenty of tannin and spice, giving Laballe’s vintage Armagnac its distinctive style. There is no addition of colour, and all the spirits are bottled brut de fût (unfiltered and at their natural alcohol level), often from a single barrel. Vintage Armagnacs are a great way to commemorate a birthday or anniversary and are typically well priced when compared to Whiskies or Cognacs of similar ages. Should you require a specific birthday vintage bottle, please let us know.
The three eaux de vie spent their first year after distillation in new 410-litre Chêne Noir Gascon barrels from Bartholomo (the last barrel maker in the Landes region) to develop texture and sweetness, and then the rest of their aging in older barrels, bringing more earthy and savoury notes. On the nose, you are immediately struck by the distinctiveness of this grape, with aromas of apple, smoke and citrus giving way to a round, salty expression in the mouth that finishes with a hint of liquorice. It’s a delightfully elegant spirit with an impressive balance of flavour, complexity and elegance as well as good length and the hearty weight you’d expect from a quality Bas Armagnac.
100% Baco grape. A refined and elegant spirit, the 1983 holds a captivating bouquet, layered with spice, florals, honey and ripe fruits leading to a poised and balanced palate with fine structure and a polished, lengthy close. Spice, tobacco and rich fruits are laden throughout, making this a perfect finish to an evening of fine food, wine and company.
1973 was a classic vintage with a pronounced fruity character. The nose is very delicate and fresh with aniseed notes and citrus fruit leading to a smooth and long palate with a similar profile and added notes of liquorice. Layers of spice bring great freshness and complexity to this medium-bodied Armagnac.
100% Ugni Blanc. This 2004 is still a youngster in Armagnac terms, yet there’s an immediate generosity and deep complexity from the first sniff. On the palate you get a lot of fruit freshness, caramel, and some woody green herbs—there’s quite a bit to unpack, so best to sit back, relax and let it unfurl in the glass. It has high energy, some sappy and grippy structure and a concentration of complexity that, when found, tends to make Armagnac drinkers smug in their choices.
The colour is very clear with a lovely brightness. The nose is powerful, very lifted and complex with aromas of fresh cut grass, some hints of menthol, vanilla, coconut and passionfruit (almost reminding of a young, quality Rum). The palate is impressively round with malt and orange rind hints, well-integrated alcohol and a long, spicy, herbaceous close.
“Armagnac is a more agricultural spirit than cognac. The brandies of the region are vinous and wine like, maturing in the cask and also in the bottle… Single-vintage, estate bottle brandies from specific varieties of grape value the fruit and mineral qualities of the grape as much the traits of the oak from the barrels in which they rest.” Thad Vogler, By the Smoke and the Smell
Country
France
Primary Region
Armagnac
People
Owners: Cyril and Julie Laudet
Availability
National
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