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Domaine Nicole Lamarche

Back on Top: Free Spirited Vosne Romanée from a Domaine Reborn

The rapid, Lazarus-like rebirth of this Domaine seems to have caught some quarters of the French cognoscenti by complete surprise. In fact, it was the English-speaking commentators like Allen Meadows, Jasper Morris, Jancis Robinson MW and Clive Coates MW that were the first to pick up the scent. This is a tale of Domaine François Lamarche (now Domaine Nicole Lamarche), an Estate that has, without doubt, one of the finest collections of vineyards in the entire Côte or, more specifically, Vosne Romanée/Echézeaux. 

After a long period of underperformance, the Domaine has managed to turn its fortunes around and is today producing wines that honour the lofty expectations of its holdings. To be specific about these holdings, Domaine Nicole Lamarche are sole owners of La Grande Rue—one of the four, legendary Grand Cru monopoles of Vosne-Romanée—as well as holding choice parcels of Echézeaux, Grands Echézeaux, Clos de Vougeot, Suchots, Chaumes and Malconsorts! Terroir was never a problem here!

“Nicole has that “touch” of harnessing the essence of Pinot Noir, letting the wines articulate their terroir with seemingly effortless ease, a sense of transparency that is wondrous to behold.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate

The upturn in quality has been the result of a gradual series of key changes, the most significant of which has been the emergence and ensuing influence of the Domaine’s sixth generation, Nicole Lamarche, who now controls every aspect of the Domaine’s operations. 

Since 2007, the vineyards have been managed under a strict organic regime, with some biodynamic influences as well, and La Grande Rue is ploughed by horse. Yields have been significantly lowered and the overall vineyard management is now of the very highest standard. In the cellar, the winemaking is all about delicacy and finesse (not something that could have been said of the wines prior to recent times), with very gentle handling and minimal extraction designed to showcase the style of filigree elegance that Nicole Lamarche believes is the ultimate reflection of Vosne’s terroir. 

To this end, a gravity-fed cuverie was completed in 2010, including a much-needed upgrade of equipment and new cooling apparatus. With each year, the use of new oak continues to diminish; currently, the Premier Crus are matured in 20-30% new barrels, rising only to 30-40% for the Grand Crus. Lamarche is also working with low-impact Stockinger oak and from 2020 has been trialling amphora. As of the 2018 vintage the Domaine has been renamed Domaine Nicole Lamarche. This justly reflects the impact of an avant-garde grower, who has steered her family Domaine back to Vosne’s top table.

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Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Monopole La Grande Rue 2021

Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Monopole La Grande Rue 2021

The 1.65-hectare La Grande Rue vineyard dates back to the 15th century and takes its name from the minor road bordering the vineyard as it climbs above the town. After La Romanée, La Grande Rue is the smallest of the Vosne Grands Crus. To say La Grande Rue is enviably situated is an understatement. It directly borders La Tâche to the south (it is the continuation of this vineyard) and La Romanée-Conti, La Romanée and Romanée-Saint-Vivant to the north (across a small road). The site first came into Lamarche’s hands in 1933, and it has been a monopole for this family ever since. The style of wine can be thought of as a prettier, more delicate version of La Tâche, but we believe it comes closer to its northern neighbours in style, as Clive Coates MW suggests: “La Grande Rue, in my view, is a more feminine wine than La Tâche. It is closer to Romanée-Saint-Vivant.” As always, comparisons are problematic—La Grande Rue has its own personality! But it is also clearly a wine of great class. When you taste it next to the same producer’s Echézeaux, Grands Echézeaux and Clos de Vougeot (which are themselves superb examples of their respective Grand Cru vineyards), the sheer class and depth of La Grande Rue is self-evident.

“This presents a whirl of heady aromas on the nose: tea leaves, tobacco, rose petals, red plum preserves and blood orange. The tannins are wispy and lightly dusty, the succulence is alluring and the acidity is mouthwatering. Nicole says it's never worth "checking" on a bottle of La Grande Rue before five years. I'd give it at least that long!”
96 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Timatkin.com, Burgundy 2021 Special Report
“The usual lighter colour but with a delicious nose, slightly riper strawberries. Here there is notably greater density on the palate, with still the right acidity behind. Tannins are integrated, the red fruit remains fully present across the palate, and delivers good length. Little orange blossom notes as ever, and considerable persistence. Fine if less intense than certain years.”
93-95 points, Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy
Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Monopole La Grande Rue 2021
Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru La Grande Rue Monopole Cuvée 1959 2021

Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru La Grande Rue Monopole Cuvée 1959 2021

This exceptionally rare wine made its debut in 2014. It comes from a small plot of vines that were exchanged with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in 1959 so that DRC could complete the monopole of La Tâche and Lamarche could complete the monopole of La Grande Rue. Such an exchange is called remembrement (which basically means grouping land together). As Allen Meadows recounts in The Pearl of the Côte, Domaine François Lamarche traded seven parcels of Les Gaudichots (now La Tâche), totalling .0186 hectares, plus two lots of Echézeaux Clos Saint-Denis. In exchange, they received three parcels of La Grande Rue totalling .1013 ha and .0048 ha in Les Gaudichots. Apparently, no money exchanged hands.So, this wine is made from grapes that formed part of La Tâche from 1933 to 1959. More correctly, this area was known as Les Gaudichots ou La Tâche before the entire vineyard was made a Grand Cru in 1936. In a good year, the tiny slither of vines covers enough for Lamarche to make two barrels. Although the exact age of the vines is unknown, the vineyard has not been replanted since the exchange, so we’re looking at a century at least. In terms of winemaking, there are a few subtle differences between the two La Grande Rue cuvées. Lamarche tends to use a higher percentage of whole bunches for the Cuvée 1959 and ferments in tank rather than wood. The wine is then raised in a specific barrel from Cavin, called Aphrodite, made from 100% Châtillonnais oak cured for 36 months. One new barrel is purchased each year. The commentary suggests a wine that displays a little more tension, minerality and structure over the classic bottling of La Grande Rue. Nicole has spoken of a certain austerity in the young wine that reminds her of La Tâche. Regardless, it has become customary for Lamarche and DRC to exchange a few bottles of their respective cuvées each year. We have next to nothing of each vintage available.

“Paler in color than the larger Grande Rue cuvée, this comes from a selection of the oldest vines in this petite Grand Cru. Typically, Nicole makes only two barrels for this label. Like its appearance, both the aromas and structure are more delicate yet simultaneously more precise. Raspberries and strawberries lead the flavors with some sultry leather and savory saline notes. The finish is just a bit longer and the tannins a wee bit finer than its sibling bottling.”
97 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Timatkin.com, Burgundy 2021 Special Report
Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru La Grande Rue Monopole Cuvée 1959 2021
Nicole Lamarche Nuits-Saint-Georges 2021

Nicole Lamarche Nuits-Saint-Georges 2021

Nicole made tiny amounts of two négoce wines in 2021. The Nuits-Saint-Georges comes from organic vines in Les Herbues and Aux Tuyaux, just off the D974 before you enter Vosne. The soils are rich in clay, and the vines are 40 years old. Roughly one-third of the cuvée was raised in Lamarche’s bespoke amphora. An artist in Italy makes these beautifully decorated vessels. For Nicole, the wine possesses the identity of Nuits but with the finesse of Vosne.

Nicole Lamarche Nuits-Saint-Georges 2021
Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Grands Echézeaux 2021

Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Grands Echézeaux 2021

The domaine farms a small 0.3-hectare parcel in Grands Echézeaux, planted in ’79 near the Route des Grands Crus, just below the climat of Echézeaux du Dessus. The note below says it all: tremendous finesse and completeness on offer here. As with the Vosne Malconsorts, this is the swansong of Larmarche’s Grands Echézeaux. From the 2022 vintage, the vines have been leased to Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair. At least Nicole has gone out on a high.

“Strawberry and crunchy raspberries are laced with warm spices. The gently nippy tannins and invigorating acidity create an energetic call-and-response on the palate. For all its exuberance, it still carries the graceful signature of the domaine. This could use some time.”
95 points, Christy Canterbury MW, Timatkin.com, Burgundy 2021 Special Report
Nicole Lamarche Grand Cru Grands Echézeaux 2021
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“I’m sorta kinda lovin’ what’s going on at François Lamarche at the moment… Nowadays, they are fashioning just the kind of Pinot Noir that I adore: unforced, natural, elegant and very terroir expressive.” Neal Martin, The Wine Advocate 

“Lamarche is now a top domaine, with wines which express themselves through their subtlety rather than their power. Since 1999, and more especially since 2005, the quality has been top-notch. This is now a three star domaine.” Clive Coates MW, My Favourite Burgundies

“Nicole [Lamarche] has established her own style in terms of winemaking. That style has always been about elegance and a natural sense of finesse, rather that overt power or deep colours.” Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy (Second Edition)

Country

France

Primary Region

Côte de Nuits

People

Winemaker: Nicole Lamarche

Availability

National

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