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Roc Breïa

Mâcon-Bray from the Main Man at Domaine Vincent Dancer

Roc Breïa is run by the driven and ambitious Théo Dancer, now also the main man at Domaine Vincent Dancer. Like his father before him, Théo studied at Lycée Viticole de Beaune while working with his father part-time. He joined the domaine full-time in 2021 and is already making a significant impact. In addition to his work with his father, Théo has this exciting new project in the Mâconnais (Roc Breïa) and has also started his own eponymous micro-négoce, sourcing fruit from several exciting vineyards across northern France. He is a talented young man, in a hurry.

In 2021, Théo was invited to visit a mature vineyard in the Bray district of the Mâconnais. The vineyard had recently been purchased by two investors, one of whom was the courtier who used to sell the vineyard’s crop in the past. The vineyard (pictured above) is a 10-hectare block on a limestone slope. Dancer immediately saw the potential and agreed to manage the project, but only on the condition that he would control the whole affair. The name of the new project is Roc Breïa. 

Taking over immediately, with the help of full-time vigneron Bastien Cubillé, Dancer has begun to sculpt the vineyard up to his standards, bringing the soils and vines back into balance, planting cover crops and cultivating inter-vine, etc. In the cellar, winemaking is very simple. The Chardonnay is whole bunch pressed and the wine ferments in used 500-litre barrels, and the Pinot Noir is vinified with some 50% whole bunch. The wines are bottled unfiltered and the only sulphur added is at bottling: a tiny 20 mg/L.The wines are results from a selection of the finest barrels, with Dancer eliminating anything he doesn’t like from the final blend. Instead of taking the Mâcon-Bray appellation, Dancer has chosen to label the wine Vin de France, so he has no restrictions in terms of picking dates.

Currently Available

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2022

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2022

The Roc Breïa Pinot Noir vines are a touch younger than the Chardonnay and were planted between 1970 and 1985. This wine is vinified with some 50% whole bunches, followed by maturation in used 500-litre barrels. As with the white, Dancer makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn’t like from the final blend. It’s a wonderfully elegant Pinot and a great reminder of what the Mâconnais can deliver from this variety. And why not? It’s Burgundy, after all, with clay-limestone soils. This is already drinking well, yet it nonetheless benefits from plenty of air. Decant, serve and fall in love.

“Théo Dancer's 2022 Pinot Noir is rather deep and muscular this year, opening in the glass with aromas of plummy fruit and sweet spices, followed by a medium to full-bodied, deep and primary palate framed by sweet, powdery tannins. It's matured in used 500-liter barrels.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2022
Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2022

Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2022

The village of Bray lies in the north of the Mâconnais. It’s the zone that also includes Cruzille and Verzé and is one of the cooler, later-ripening areas of the Mâconnais. The Roc Breïa vines face west, and it’s windy, so there is little disease pressure. The Chardonnay is drawn from vines planted in the mid-1940s and mid-’70s. In the cellar, the winemaking is simple. The Chardonnay is whole bunch-pressed, and the wine ferments in used 500-litre barrels. It’s bottled unfiltered, and the only sulphur added is at bottling: a tiny 20 mg/L. Instead of taking the Mâcon-Bray appellation, Dancer has chosen to label the wine Vin de France, so he has no restrictions regarding picking dates. As for the wine itself, forget any stereotype about Mâcon; this is a juicy, punchy white Burgundy, atypically fresh and racy for the region.

“The 2022 Chardonnay has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of pear, white flowers, bread dough and hazelnuts, followed by a medium to full-bodied, fleshy palate with a satiny attack that segues into a charming, lively mid-palate, with good cut and a saline finish. Dancer sold off two-thirds of his crop in 2021, but the quality of his raw materials in 2022 should permit a less draconian selection.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2022
Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023

The Roc Breïa Pinot Noir vines are a touch younger than the Chardonnay and were planted between 1970 and 1985. This wine is vinified with some 50% whole bunch, followed by maturation in used 500-litre barrels. Dancer makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn’t like from the final blend. The wine is made in the same minimalist earth-to-glass spirit as Dancer’s Côte d’Or reds under the Vincent Dancer label: no yeast additions, very low sulphur and no filtration. The result is a wonderfully pure-fruited and elegant Pinot–a reminder of what the Mâconnais can deliver from this variety in the right hands. And why not? It’s Burgundy, after all, with clay-limestone soils. The 2023 is utterly delicious, packed with florals, red fruits and a lick of oak. There are plenty of fine tannins, too, and terrific length. Again, it loves air, getting better in a decanter or a big glass. And it soars with full-flavoured foods like game birds. Decant, serve, and fall in love.

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023
Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)

The Roc Breïa Pinot Noir vines are a touch younger than the Chardonnay and were planted between 1970 and 1985. This wine is vinified with some 50% whole bunch, followed by maturation in used 500-litre barrels. Dancer makes a rigorous barrel selection, eliminating anything he doesn’t like from the final blend. The wine is made in the same minimalist earth-to-glass spirit as Dancer’s Côte d’Or reds under the Vincent Dancer label: no yeast additions, very low sulphur and no filtration. The result is a wonderfully pure-fruited and elegant Pinot–a reminder of what the Mâconnais can deliver from this variety in the right hands. And why not? It’s Burgundy, after all, with clay-limestone soils. The 2023 is utterly delicious, packed with florals, red fruits and a lick of oak. There are plenty of fine tannins, too, and terrific length. Again, it loves air, getting better in a decanter or a big glass. And it soars with full-flavoured foods like game birds. Decant, serve, and fall in love.

Roc Breïa Pinot Noir 2023 (1500ml)
Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023

Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023

The village of Bray lies in the north of the Mâcon. It’s the zone that also includes Cruzille and Verzé and is one of the cooler, later-ripening areas of the Mâconnais. The Roc Breïa vines face west, and it’s windy, so there is little disease pressure. The Chardonnay is drawn from vines planted in the mid-1940s and mid-1970s. With assistance from vigneron Bastien Cubillé, Dancer is well on the way to raising the vineyard to his standards, bringing the soils and vines into balance, planting cover crops, cultivating inter-vine, etc. The 2023 release is superb: the result of vineyard progression and a (surprisingly) fine vintage in the Mâcon. The winemaking is very simple. The Chardonnay is pressed as bunches to used 500-litre barrels for fermentation, and the wine is bottled unfiltered with a tiny (20 mg/L) addition of sulphur. Instead of taking the Mâcon-Bray appellation, Dancer has chosen to label the wine Vin de France, so he has no restrictions regarding picking dates. As for the wine, forget any stereotypes you hold about Mâcon; this is a pure and linear white Burgundy, atypically fresh and racy for the region. Yes, it has texture and weight, but the flavours are very much in the citrus and nectarine world and far less sun-kissed than what we often see from this part of Burgundy. It’s a wine that loves air at this early stage, so don’t be scared to give it a good decant before serving.

Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023
Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023 (1500ml)

Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023 (1500ml)

The village of Bray lies in the north of the Mâcon. It’s the zone that also includes Cruzille and Verzé and is one of the cooler, later-ripening areas of the Mâconnais. The Roc Breïa vines face west, and it’s windy, so there is little disease pressure. The Chardonnay is drawn from vines planted in the mid-1940s and mid-1970s. With assistance from vigneron Bastien Cubillé, Dancer is well on the way to raising the vineyard to his standards, bringing the soils and vines into balance, planting cover crops, cultivating inter-vine, etc. The 2023 release is superb: the result of vineyard progression and a (surprisingly) fine vintage in the Mâcon. The winemaking is very simple. The Chardonnay is pressed as bunches to used 500-litre barrels for fermentation, and the wine is bottled unfiltered with a tiny (20 mg/L) addition of sulphur. Instead of taking the Mâcon-Bray appellation, Dancer has chosen to label the wine Vin de France, so he has no restrictions regarding picking dates. As for the wine, forget any stereotypes you hold about Mâcon; this is a pure and linear white Burgundy, atypically fresh and racy for the region. Yes, it has texture and weight, but the flavours are very much in the citrus and nectarine world and far less sun-kissed than what we often see from this part of Burgundy. It’s a wine that loves air at this early stage, so don’t be scared to give it a good decant before serving.

Roc Breïa Chardonnay 2023 (1500ml)
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Dynamic vigneron Théo Dancer, son of cult Chassagne producer Vincent Dancer, heads up this exciting new project in the Mâconnais.

• He splits his time between this project, the running of his father’s domaine and his eponymous micro-négoce, which focuses on non-Burgundy wines.

• The 10-hectare vineyard in the Bray district is planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

• The organically farmed 35- to 65-year-old vines lie in clay-limestone soils.

• The wines are made in the Dancers’ Chassagne cellar, and vinification includes barrel ferments for the white and a healthy portion of bunches for the red.

• There are just two wines, both available in large format.

Country

France

Primary Region

Mâconnais

People

Winemakers: Théo Dancer, Bastien Cubillé

Availability

National

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