The signature apero that started the ball rolling, Stellacello Pompelmo is a distinctive and far more interesting twist on the classic Italian Limoncello. The quality pink grapefruit that Stella sources gifts a racier, drier and pithier profile, so while Pompelmo can be enjoyed as a citrusy aperitivo (with tonic), or more traditionally as a digestif, it works equally well as a classy cocktail base and modifier. Already widely used by London’s best barkeeps, this amber liquid, with its sweet, zesty aromas and flavours, its subtlety and versatility, is clearly a fun ingredient to play with behind the stick. The basic details are that Stella macerates his pink grapefruit peel in a high proof neutral base spirit for up to two months. The liqueur is then modestly sweetened with sugar syrup and cut to 29%. However, Stella admits that there’s a little more to it than that. Back home, he’s got a think tank of Australian-Italian Nonnas divulging their age-old family secrets (and that, it seems, is the way it is going to stay). Regardless, this is a must try.

Joe Stella dates his love of amaro back to his days tending bars in Melbourne, some 20 years ago. His love of bitter flavours started somewhat earlier, as a young Italian lad sipping on chinotto as his mates enjoyed their Coca-Cola. Following the early success of his Stellacello Pompelmo (a stunningly delicious grapefruit-based liqueur), Stella took on a very personal challenge, in 2014, to create an original, London-bred amaro of a quality that could stand alongside his extensive collection of the finest Italian amari. Some 25 ingredients are used, (including Bethnal Green’s finest imported grapefruit peel and flesh, coriander seed, black peppercorn, orange zest, rosemary, Madagascan vanilla pod and whole fresh rhubarb), each added to a long, staggered maceration in neutral spirit. The sweetness—essential to balance the drink’s bitter elements—comes from the traditional addition of sugar syrup. The resulting brew carries heady scents of sarsaparilla, neroli, blackberry and currants, backed up by vibrant citrus and cinnamon. On the palate, you get notes of cola, burnt orange and red liquorice, with a soft and subtle bitterness balancing the well-rounded texture. Perhaps the best way to familiarise yourself with the brilliant quality and class on offer here is to serve this neat over ice as an after-dinner drink, although its measured sweetness and gentle bitterness also make it an ideal cocktail ingredient.