Champagne Laherte Frères Les Vignes d'Autrefois 2019 (Disg. Nov 2022)

Disgorged November 2022. 100% old-vine Pinot Meunier. Les Vignes d’Autrefois (‘vines of another time’) is made from a single four-tonne press of grapes from old vines planted between 1947 and 1964. These grow in several chalky terroirs in Chavot and Mancy. The sites in Chavot (La Potote and Les Rouges Maisons) sit on deep clay and silt soils, with a presence of flint and small stones. In Mancy are Les Hautes Norgeailles and Les Bas Putroux, where the vines are rooted in clay soils over chalk. 
Viticulture for these sites is entirely biodynamic. As well as referencing the age of the vines, the name also refers to the fact that these vines are all massal selections (i.e. non-clonal). There is even a soupçon of ungrafted vine material scattered throughout these vineyards. Aurélien uses old Burgundy barrels for aging (including some sourced from Montille and Leroux), and there was no malolactic conversion. The wine aged for seven months in barrel, followed by 30 months on lees in bottle. 
The very low dosage of 3 g/L allows the iodine minerality of these chalky terroirs to sing. This is emblematic of the quality at Laherte today and reflects the fruit’s tension and low-yield intensity. It offers a wonderful balance between penetrating, spicy, fleshy red fruit and salty, racy deliciousness—one of the great Meunier bottlings of Champagne.