Champagne Laherte Frères Ultradition NV (Base 18. Disg. Oct 2021)

Organically farmed with biodynamic methods. We probably don't need to keep saying this, but Laherte’s entry Champagne continues its skywards trajectory. What we should point out, however is that our most recent shipment now has a beautiful new label (by artist Hanna Albrektson), bringing it into line with the Rosé de Meunier and Blanc des Blancs Brut Nature designs.

Called “just impeccable, especially within its peer group,” by Galloni, there are now two reserve vintages blended in (which make up 40% of the blend), with 60% comprising barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, and was drawn from seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels—including two 50-hL Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic fermentation is partially completed (around 60-70% on average).