Champagne Laherte Frères Ultradition NV (Base 19. Disg. Nov 2021)

Dubbed “just impeccable, especially within its peer group,” by Galloni, Ultradition is made from fruit that is both biodynamic and organically reared. There are now two reserve vintages blended in, making up 40% of the blend, and 60% is comprised of barrel-aged material. The varietal blend remains 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir, with the fruit drawn from seven different parcels across the Côteaux Sud d'Épernay and Vallée de la Marne (namely Chavot, Mancy, Morangis, Le Breuil, Boursault, Moussy and Vaudancourt). The average age of the vines is 30 years.

Aurélien Laherte naturally ferments the juice in a mixture of vessels—including two 50-hL Rousseau tronconique casks, old barrels, foudre and concrete. Regardless of vessel, the wines are always on lees and malolactic fermentation is partially completed (around 60-70% on average). This bottling—based on the 2019 vintage with 40% reserve wines from 2018 and 2007—was disgorged with a dosage of 4.5 g/L (extra-brut).