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The limited production La Guiraude is Graillot’s tête de cuvée—made only in vintages where there are wines that exhibit particularly intense and ageworthy personalities. It’s a barrel selection, so the winemaking is the same as the classic Crozes, although the chosen casks age longer in both barrel and bottle. The Graillots are quick to point out that La Guiraude is not necessarily seen as a better wine than the domaine’s Crozes; instead, it is typically more powerful, spicier, and perhaps calling for longer cellaring. However, we can safely say it often is better, and in 2022, it is considerably so. It’s still slightly ‘wild’ but also deep and layered—a kind of mini-Hermitage. Powerful yet remains ‘classic’ and savoury in style with a long, sappy, meaty close.