Domaine François Chidaine Vin de France (Vouvray) Baudoin 2023

Chidaine began working with one of the greatest and most storied Vouvray vineyards in 2002 and immediately began restoring the health of Clos Baudoin’s soil and converting it to biodynamics. You only need to stand in the vineyard to know you are in a great site. Sitting on the crest of a hill high over the surrounding countryside, it is a strangely tranquil place. It's 2.7 hectares in size with an average vine age of over 70 years. The soils are clay and chalk, with a deep tuffeau (local limestone) subsoil.

Compared to the relative approachability of this grower’s Les Argiles cuvée, this wine is a deep, tightly coiled and densely compact Vouvray. Exuding intensity and power, you immediately realise you’re tasting a wine from a profound terroir.  Raised in 10+-year-old demi-muids, it opens with citrus peel and white peach flecked by lime blossom and chalky mineral substance. The palate is predictably pure and focused, purring with glinting, stone-fruited intensity underscored by pulpy citrus and notes of red peppercorn and pollen. Time will tell us just how great this Vouvray will be—for now, it’s a vibrant and compact Chenin bursting with potential. And with a light grip on the finish, it’s made for food.