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Yes, we realise the price for this unicorn is now in the stratosphere—The Wine Advocate’s 100-point score for the 2020 did not help matters. But we get only a few bottles from a handkerchief-sized 0.05-hectare parcel, and we should recall that the overall pricing of Lamy wines is extremely fair in the context of modern, benchmark white Burgundy. We always take what we can get, and the wine is certainly as outstanding as it is rare. The Lamy family have farmed the vines here for three generations, and the parcel borders the southeast corner of Bâtard, right next to Domaine d’Auvenay’s plot. Olivier Lamy has taken the density up to 24,000 vines per hectare. Unlike most of its Grand Cru contemporaries, this wine is entirely unfettered by new oak (instead, it is raised in a single, 250-litre, six-year-old barrel (with part of the aging in Wineglobe) and, when there is enough for a second vessel, this is aged in Wineglobe). So, the aging vessel always gets out of the way, allowing the drinker to get straight to the heart of the matter—which is simply remarkable white Burgundy.