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Biodynamic. Hélène Thibon’s small-batch white comes from a blend of low-cropped, hand-harvested Roussanne, Viognier and Clairette. There’s more Roussanne this year than usual (barrel-fermented and zero malo). The Viognier was raised entirely in cement and stainless-steel vats, while the Clairette was fermented in Stockinger demi-muids.
The latest release is another example of how sophisticated the whites from this part of France can be in the right hands. Aromatic, silky, and deftly woven, the contoured 2022 combines flavours of stone fruit, apricot kernel, citrus leaf and hawthorn blossom with impressive length and poise. It’s a deeper release this year, its fleshy palate countered by refreshing acidity and mouth-watering grip.
Hélène Thibon suggests serving this with “… chèvre fleshier cheese, or classic Mediterranean fish dishes. This is a white wine that can hold its own against a bit of garlic (though don’t get carried away).” From experience, we’ll throw terrine and grilled fish into the mix. Bon appétit.