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The vineyard of Kiedrich Gräfenberg—or ‘hill of the counts’—has been used to designate Robert Weil’s finest wines since the site was officially classified as ‘Weinlage 1 Klasse’ in 1867. Home to Weil’s oldest vines (up to 80 years of age), with the majority on their own rootstock, it makes perfect sense that Wilhelm Weil decided that it was only from this site that his Grosses Gewächs would derive (even though he could release two GGs from his vineyards).Weil aims to replicate the style, quality and elegance of the full-bodied dry wines produced in the Rheingau a century ago when the region’s finest Rieslings were the most expensive wines in the world. Despite the high quality of the Turmberg and Klosterberg, this is clearly on another level. The greater loess and loam also impart a distinguishing textural dimension. It’s finer, even more complete and subtly powerful—a wine of obvious Grand Cru class. This year, the GG was raised for 10 months (instead of 12) on lees in large, neutral oak Doppelstückfass (large Stockinger casks). When you think of what we are paying for top-notch Grand Cru white Burgundy, Weil’s remains an absolute bargain, matching the best for class and quality. Few (if any!) could match it for longevity.