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Biodynamic. If Saumur were drawn up along Burgundian lines, Roches Neuves would claim several Grand Crus sites. One of these would be the two-hectare Clos l’Échelier, surrounded by a wall built 300 years ago. This is a magical site. Thierry explains that he had his eye on this limestone-rich clos since he arrived in the region 20 years ago. He was finally able to purchase it in 2012. It lies in Dampierre-sur-Loire above the old troglodyte caves that skirt this section of the river. Much of the site is planted to Cabernet Franc, though Germain has been planting more Chenin to add to its 0.4 hectares of 60-year-old vines. The soils are sandy and shallow with just a 30cm layer of argilo-calcaire over pure Turonian limestone.
The combination of site, vintage, meagre yields and Germain's precise biodynamic farming has delivered a dramatically tense, crystalline, mineral-bound white this year. Expect dazzling floral and stone fruit flavours seamlessly entwined with old-vine power, rocky structures and a penetrating saline finish. If any doubt remained that Saumur is blessed with one of France's most singular white wine terroirs, a bottle of this would end the conversation. Think of it as the equivalent of Premier Cru Burgundy, Grand Cru Alsace and top Grosses Gewächs.