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Biodynamic. Roches Neuves would surely claim several Grand Cru sites if Saumur were drawn up along Burgundy lines. One of these would be Clos de l’Échelier, a beautiful, ancient two-hectare vineyard surrounded by a wall built 300 years ago. It’s a magical site. Thierry explains that he had his eye on this limestone-rich clos from the moment he arrived in the region over 20 years ago. He was finally able to purchase it in 2012. It lies in Dampierre-sur-Loire atop the sheer limestone cliffs that skirt this section of the Loire River. Much of the site is planted to Cabernet Franc, though Germain has been planting more Chenin to add to its 0.4 hectares of 60-year-old vines. The soils are sandy and shallow, with just a 30cm layer of argilo-calcaire over pure Turonian limestone.
The combination of site, meagre yields and Germain's precise biodynamic farming results in a wine of compact stone fruit and citrus peel entwined with old-vine power, rocky structure and a penetrating saline finish. If there were any doubt that Saumur is home to one of France's most singular white wine terroirs, a bottle of l’Échelier would end the conversation.