For anyone new to the party, this micro-Jura project is a partnership between David Croix―one of Burgundy’s young superstars―and his great mate, Damien Courbet. Courbet is Jura born and bred and manages his own family domaine in Nevy-sur-Seille, next door to the Château-Chalon appellation. The pair craft three expressions of Savagnin ouillé (topped up), each emphasising purity and terroir rather than flor-aging notes. The Côtes du Jura is a blend of Arbois, Passenans and Château-Chalon, and their two single vineyard wines come from vines in Arbois and Château-Chalon, respectively. For those lucky enough to have tasted Croix’s frighteningly good Corton-Charlemagne, it will come as no surprise that the style of the wines hinges on purity and tension. Don’t come here looking for overtly oxidative Savagnin sous voile. On the contrary, these wines are all kept topped and offer a pure, precise and mineral expression of the Jura terroir. While all the grapes are purchased, Croix and Courbet pay well over the market value, encouraging their growers to work as diligently as possible. The pair also choose the picking dates and oversee harvesting, and Courbet himself farms the En Beaumont lieu-dit, which lies minutes from his winery where all the wines are made. In the cellar, the winemaking is strictly artisanal, with only native yeast ferments. Courbet believes that Savagnin is much more robust than Chardonnay and it certainly has lower pH’s as a rule, allowing the pair to keep sulphur doses to the bare minimum. The wines are raised in large-format oak or concrete eggs, depending on the vineyard. Shaped by the vintage’s tiny yields—only one 500-litre barrel of the Côtes du Jura was made this year—and the electrifying freshness of the grapes, 2021 had delivered a dazzling trio of wines. Expect chiselled, racy, saline whites with stone-sculpted textures (what a French taster might call eau de roche). Each wine is packed with its own site-driven variation on chalk, savoury spice, citrus pulp and stone fruit. If we were in Burgundy, wines of this quality would be double the price, if not more. If you’re keen (and you should be), please act fast—our previous allocation sold out within days.