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Corofin

Storyteller: Hillside Tales from Marlborough’s Southern Valleys
Corofin
If Mike Paterson has an Achilles heel, it could be that he does not seem to appreciate quite how good his wines really are. Or at least he won’t allow himself to admit it. He is far more comfortable deflecting praise onto the vineyards he works with and their owners. “We are setting out to make wines that tell a story about some pretty special Marlborough sites. It’s these growers,” he says, referring to the likes of Ben Cowley, Takaki Okada and Jan and Andrew Johns, “who have put Marlborough in a position to make single-vineyard wines like these.”

Yet even a winemaker of Mike Paterson’s humility can’t entirely ignore the qualities of Corofin’s 2022 vintage. “For sure, the 2022 wines are the most accurate depictions of their sites,” he told us. “We’ve locked down the fundamentals, and with the sites and growers really hitting their straps, we’re starting to see our vision come to fruition. We couldn’t be happier with the 2022s.” Maybe, just maybe, Mike is starting to get the memo: his wines are bloody outstanding.

You would be hard-pressed to find a better example of how modesty and persistence can elevate an underestimated spot than Corofin. Growers, makers and viticulturists like the Patersons, the Kalberers, the Highlands and the Sowmans of this world are making a compelling case for the true potential of the unique, low-yielding vineyards tucked into the hillside folds of Marlborough’s Southern Valleys—small, hand worked parcels far removed from the uniform tessellations of the valley floor’s fertile mechanised vineyards.

“The single sites are unapologetically singular,” says Mike, a statement of proof when you taste the chalky, structured Chardonnay from Jan and Andrew Johns’ cool Wrekin Vineyard next to the fleshier Folium, drawn from older vines in Takaki Okada’s Brancott site; the differences between Corofin’s Pinot Noirs are arguably more heightened.

Regardless of how impressive Corofin’s wines have been—not surprising given Paterson’s status as a winemaker’s winemaker—the new releases stand out for their vivid, supple fruit and vibrant energy. Where 2021 is a great, slow-burning year, the younger vintage reaches out and grabs you. A “spectacular growing season” played its part, with ideal yields, moderate temperatures and prolonged ripening. “You get that degree of extra ripeness without compromise, and I think that’s where the detail comes from,” says Mike, who picks on the cusp of ripeness rather than waiting for uniformity. “Though [uniform ripeness] might make a nice wine, it won’t give the same sense of place.” Fifteen years in, Corofin is now a paragon address for Pinot and Chardonnay in New Zealand.

The Wines

Corofin Folium Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Corofin Folium Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Organic. Initially planted by Fromm in 1996, the Folium Vineyard lies in Marlborough’s Brancott Valley. Since 2011, this beautiful site has been owned and organically tended by viticultural purist Takaki Okada, who lives in a little house in the middle of his vines. The dirt here is Southern Valley clay, around 1.5 metres deep on top of gravelly silt. These soils retain sufficient moisture during the dry summers to balance growth without the need for irrigation. Corofin only gets to work with five rows (1,200 vines).

Mike explains that the Chardonnay from this dry-grown site delivers the holy trinity of “ripeness, precision and harmony”, reflecting Takaki’s sensitive farming practices and the vineyard’s ungrafted, deep-rooted vines. The fruit was picked a few days later than Wrekin on 26th March, and winemaking was similar. It was pressed as bunches, with only the soft pressings used. Fermentation, malolactic conversion and maturation occurred in seasoned puncheons and barriques for 12 months. It then spent another eight months in tank before bottling without fining or filtration. In contrast to the linear, mineral Wrekin, Folium boasts more weight around its bones while maintaining balance and fine structure.

“White peach, papaya, chamomile, something of a ginger biscuit character, along with salty pastry dough. It’s has some flesh to it, again that salted dough and oatmeal, perhaps some seaweed, fine powdery texture, with a saline finish of excellent length. Lovely wine. So distinctive and interesting.”
94 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“This is from Takaki Okada’s vineyard in the heart of the Brancott Valley, which unusually for Marlborough is unirrigated. There’s some innate ripeness here with bold apple and white peach, but it’s also understated and fine with delicate honey and hazelnut notes blending into the fruit, and a long, salt-laced finish. Nourishing and refined, this is a lovely expression of place. Barely there but there: a watercolour not an oil painting.”
95 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
Corofin Folium Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2022

Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2022

Organic. This is the second release under Corofin’s newly minted ‘regional’ label―you could consider these the estate’s village-level wines. Don’t let that fool you; there’s very impressive material in these wines. This year, the blend comprises fruit from two vineyards in the Brancott Valley, Wrekin (55%) and Folium (45%).  Planted by Fromm in 1996, the Folium Vineyard is an organically tended site on Southern Valley clay (around 1.5 metres deep with gravelly silt on top). The site is dry-grown, and Corofin works with just five rows―a total of 1,200 vines. The Wrekin Vineyard is a small, organic-certified (BioGro), biodynamically farmed site at the top of the Brancott Valley. 

Wrekin was picked on 19th March, and Folium followed three days later. All the fruit was pressed gently as bunches and transferred to seasoned puncheons and two stainless-steel barrels for fermentation and malolactic conversion. After 12 months, the wine was transferred to tank for a further eight months’ maturation before being bottled without fining or filtration.

“Quite saline, with a little fino sherry (or sake) nuttiness, slight struck match, nectarine and grapefruit, with some seaweed, sweet spices and chamomile. It’s tight and juicy, pink grapefruit and stone fruit, plenty of chalk and chew to texture, nutty and almond milky, with a bright core of citrus acidity and a bright finish of excellent length and zing. Lovely wine. Distinctive and individual.”
93 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“These Corofin wines are beautifully made, and I’m thinking they are low on winemaking artifice to best display their site.”
Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
Corofin Marlborough Chardonnay 2022
Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022

Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022

Corofin’s regional wines made their debut last year, and a fine debut it was. Rather than casting the net wide to unknown and unproven sources, Mike Paterson composes these wines from his most prized vineyards―the sites responsible for his exceptional single-vineyard bottlings. This year’s release combines fruit from three sites in three valleys: Wrekin in Brancott Valley (45%), Settlement in Omaka Valley (45%) and Churton in Waihopai Valley (10%). Paterson loves the combination of the Wrekin and Settlement sites, finding harmony in the elegant, red-fruited suppleness of Settlement and the brooding, savoury weight of Wrekin. It’s a match made in Marlborough, with Churton bumping up the structure and spice. 

Settlement and Wrekin came off the vine on 17th and 19th March respectively, with Churton following a few days later on 29th. All the fruit was destemmed to a tank that was sealed for five days, after which the fruit was punched down. Fermentation lasted 10 more days. After 19 to 22 days, the wines were pressed to seasoned French barrels for 13 months’ maturation, followed by a further five months in tank before bottling without fining or filtration.

“I little bit of charcoal reduction, cherry, raspberry, spice, peanut shells and dried herb. It’s medium-bodied, crisp and vibrant, strawberry and red cherry, a little bit sappy with a slight tamarillo tang, fine dusty peppery tannin, with a brisk cranberry accented finish of good length. Nice wine. Kind of frisky, but lively and good.”
92 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“Sweetly aromatic with hints of pepper and some leafy greenness as well as plums and red cherries. In the mouth this has a sense of elegance and lightness, with a core of sweet strawberry and cherry fruit, with some fine spicy notes. Ripe but elegant, with a touch of orange peel on the finish. Real drinkability and elegance here.”
93 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
Corofin Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022
Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

Organic. The 20-year-old Settlement Vineyard is located on the slopes of the Omaka Valley to the south of Marlborough’s Wairau Plains. This organic-certified site is owned by Dog Point and is managed by gun viticulturist Nigel Sowman. The fruit for this bottling hails from a tiny sliver of vines at the top of the vineyard’s east slope, a clay-rich parcel planted at 4,000 vines per hectare (all 777 clone). Typically, the Settlement fruit is among the first to be picked and tends to sit in the red-fruited, youthfully radiant end of the Corofin single-vineyard spectrum. That said, Mike Paterson tells us he’s witnessed a significant evolution in the phenolic structure of the fruit in recent years, and as much plays out in the glass in 2022. 

The fruit was picked by hand on 19th March and destemmed to a pair of one-tonne open fermenters. The bottom 15% of the fruit was crushed by foot, with the remaining berries kept intact. Extraction was gentle and occurred once a day. After 19 days, the wine was pressed to seasoned oak for 14 months’ maturation, followed by eight months in tank before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“Strawberry, raspberry, some orange peel and potpourri perfume. It’s medium-bodied, quite fresh and slightly sappy, with fine dusty tannin grip, cherry pip and blood orange, with a lively and fragrant finish of excellent length. There’s a little dusting of white pepper in this wine, which I like, and it’s so finely wrought and lovely to drink. Yes.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“This is a north-facing vineyard in the Omaka valley, with clay soils. Expressive and fine with a nice subtle green sappy edge to the redcurrant and cherry fruit. But there’s also a nice mid-palate with fine cherry fruit, a herbal twist and a nice juicy edge."
94 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
Corofin Settlement Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2022

Organic. Planted in 2002, the Wrekin Vineyard is a small, organically certified (BioGro) and biodynamically farmed site at the top of the Brancott Valley, almost in its own locality. It’s a great new site for Corofin, providing both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of “exceptional individuality and quality”, according to Mike Paterson. Owned by Jan and Andrew Johns and farmed by Jeremy Highland, Wrekin sits in the lee of the Southern Valley scarps on clay-rich soils laid over greywacke mother rock. Orientated northeast and planted at 4000 vines per hectare (to moderate vigour), it’s also one of the highest vineyards in the valley, producing fruit that is often the last to be harvested.

No matter the season, yields are always low at the Wrekin site, and though crops were healthier in 2022 than the preceding year (25hl/ha), levels did not exceed those stipulated for Grand Cru Burgundy (35hl/ha). The fruit was picked by hand on 23rd March and gently pressed as bunches to tank. Only the soft pressings were used, and fermentation occurred in two seasoned 500-litre puncheons and one 280-litre stainless-steel barrel. After a leisurely fermentation (seven weeks), the wine underwent full malolactic conversion and 12 months’ maturation. The wine rested for a further eight months in tank before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“Saline, nutty, a light manzanilla-like top note, fennel, honey, subtle peach, rockmelon and citrus, though primary fruit is not really its thing. It’s bright and gently chalky, salted pistachio and some oatmeal richness, quite some tang though it, though it keeps itself nicely balanced, closing with excellent length, some chamomile perfume and salted lemon in the aftertaste. Something of a Jura quality about this wine, I feel, so if that’s in your wheelhouse, then you’ll be well served here.”
94 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“This is broad but fine with rich, mealy, spicy undercurrents to the pear and peach fruit. It’s really harmonious with bold ripe flavours but also some restraint, and hints of honey and acacia. Plenty of potential for development here.”
95 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
“This is very complete and complex, showing plenty of flint, matchstick and dried-apple character and some bread-dough undertones. Full-bodied with a dense palate and an energetic, vivid and fantastic finish. Rather steely and lively. Wow. Reductive at the end. So racy and well-made with great depth. Drinkable now but can age nicely.”
97 points, jamessuckling.com
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Chardonnay 2022
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

Organic. Planted in 2002, the Wrekin Vineyard is a small, organically certified (BioGro) and biodynamically farmed site at the top of the Brancott Valley, almost in its own locality. It’s a great new site for Corofin, providing both Pinot Noir and Chardonnay of “exceptional individuality and quality”, according to Mike Paterson. Owned by Jan and Andrew Johns and farmed by Jeremy Highland, Wrekin sits in the lee of the Southern Valley scarps on clay-rich soils laid over greywacke mother rock. Orientated northeast and planted at 4000 vines per hectare (to moderate vigour), it’s also one of the highest vineyards in the valley, producing fruit that is often the last to be harvested.

This is Corofin’s third Wrekin Pinot, and it’s easy to see why this 14-hectare vineyard is fast becoming a significant site in the Marlborough landscape. Referencing the cool location and late ripening here, Paterson notes: “Having Pinot on the vine for as long as possible without compromising the integrity of site expression always produces the best results.” The 2022 season put an end to a string of drought-like seasons in Marlborough and heralded a return to decent yields―that said, the Patersons’ block was kept to a Grand Cru Burgundy-like level of 35hl/ha. The fruit came off the vine in mid-March and was destemmed to a pair of one-tonne open fermenters. The bottom 10% of the fruit was crushed by foot, with the remaining berries kept intact. Extraction was gentle and occurred once a day. After 21 days, the wine was pressed to seasoned oak for 14 months’ maturation, followed by eight months in tank before being bottled unfined and unfiltered.

“These Corofin wines are beautifully made, and I’m thinking they are low on winemaking artifice to best display their site. No whole bunch and second and third fill French oak. No wrekin balls involved here. And I’ll say that while this is indefinably Pinot Noir, it does show some quasi Barbaresco character. Likely that’s just me though. Such a pure and lovely expression of Pinot Noir. Cherry, red fruit, quite some floral perfume, slight biscuit spice, sweet tobacco and liquorice root. It’s medium-bodied, fresh red fruit of quiet succulence, a light stony pumice stone grip to tannin, subtle blood orange tang and a few dried herbs, with a fine chalk dust finish of excellent length. Wonderful.”
95 points, Gary Walsh, The Wine Front
“There’s a real energy to this Pinot Noir, with bright redcurrant and cherry fruit. It’s silky but vibrant with nice green hints and good acidity supporting the tannic structure. So vibrant and appealing with nice crunchy raspberry fruit on the finish. This is almost Barolo-like in flavour profile, but a really pure, classic style of Barolo, and it will have a massive upside if you cellar it. It’s not a lush, sweet Pinot: it has edges as well as its delicacy, and some fine reductive hints, too.”
95 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
Corofin Wrekin Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022

“These Corofin wines are beautifully made, and I’m thinking they are low on winemaking artifice to best display their site.” Gary Walsh, The Wine Front

“For me, Corofin is one of Marlborough’s (and New Zealand’s) most exciting wine projects. The people behind it are Mike and Anna Paterson, and the idea is to tell the new Marlborough story: interesting, organically farmed terroirs seen through the lens of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.” Jamie Goode, Wine Anorak

“New Zealand Chardonnay can really hit some heights in the right hands.” Jamie Goode on Wrekin Chardonnay 2022

“Oh yes, Lord. Fresh, textural, juicy, unusual, satisfying. Not your typical Pinot. Just good. So good.” Elaine Chukan-Brown on Wrekin Pinot Noir 2022

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