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Lalù

Soulful Piemonte from a Rising Star
Lalù

Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala are living proof that you don’t need a load of start-up capital or historical ties to a region to begin making seriously delicious wines in Piemonte. In a region where it’s notoriously challenging for outsiders to gain a toehold, Lalù is the tale of two passionate and determined young women who quickly kicked off not only an organic label, and a very fine one at that, but are now thriving—all in a mere handful of years. 

Starting with just half a hectare of Nebbiolo in La Morra’s Roncaglie in 2015, Lara and Luisa now own more than two hectares and farm over five, spread between La Morra and Monforte d’Alba. In a good year, they craft fewer than 2,000 cases. Young as they are, 2022 marks a significant milestone in Lalù’s short history. This was the year Lalù purchased a parcel of the beautiful Bricco Giubellini in the hilly south of Monforte. 

Pictured below, Giubellini is one of Barolo’s highest and chilliest vineyards, cooled by winds rolling from the Alta Langhe. The Nebbiolo and Barbera vines lie on Diano sandstone at a lofty 530 metres. The vineyard already supplies Lalù’s vibrant, fruit-pure Barbera d’Alba and will soon have its own Barolo, starting with a stellar 2022 vintage released next year. 

Understandably, Lalù’s wines go from strength to strength. By Piemonte’s orthodox standards, there is a real sense of adventure in the cantina, but one grounded in what really matters. Formative stints with Lafon and Cecile Tremblay in Burgundy have compelled Lara and Luisa to take a fresh look at everything, from their viticultural practices to their winemaking, which brings in elements of whole-bunch and intracellular fermentations and infusion-led extraction techniques. 

Reflecting all the hard work in the vineyard and cellar, these wines will delight anyone who seeks perfume, brightness and drinkability. And they are only getting better, as a recent tasting in Piemonte made clear. “We realised we had to find a way to make elegant and fine Nebbiolo,” says Lara. “We didn’t want to focus on structure, tannin and power. We wanted to focus on the Cru, the vineyard, and finesse.” Let’s drink to that.

The Wines

Lalù Barbera d'Alba 2022

Lalù Barbera d'Alba 2022

Organic. Lalù’s Barbera just gets better. The new release is the first to include fruit from the new estate vineyard of Bricco Giubellini in Monforte. The vines here lie on Diano sandstone at a lofty 530 metres, an altitude that brings welcome freshness to warmer Piemonte vintages such as 2022 and 2023. The balance of the Barbera is drawn from fruit purchased from Monforte’s San Sebastiano—another site Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala believe exceptional for this variety. 

Made with a mix of whole berries and bunches, the wine fermented and matured for eight months entirely in concrete. It’s a more powerful, sensual release than last year, still perfumed and vibrant yet more textural. The wine slinks out of the glass with pure red berries, violets and brown spices before turning towards more earthy shades of liquorice and woody herbs. The palate has joyous purity as well as a lovely mouthwatering quality from both the powdery tannins and the variety’s bright acidity while also hinting at Lalù’s light touch in the cellar. A first-class artisanal Barbera here. 

“Deep violet-crimson. Distinct nose of blueberry, blackberry with a hint of savoury, chalky notes. Great purity of fruit, enormous transparency and impressive length complemented by fine, chewy tannins. Complex and hedonistic and fine, all at the same time.”
17.5 points, Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Lalù Barbera d'Alba 2022
Lalù Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

Lalù Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

Organic. This vibrant, perfumed Nebbiolo is an equal-parts blend of two sites Lalù planted. The first site, Roncaglie in La Morra, is a plot of land that Lara Rocchetti and Luisa Sala bought in 2015 and planted in 2017. Looking towards Verduno, this parcel faces east at an altitude of 400 metres. It’s a cool, windy, slow-ripening site where the water-retentive clay soils play a significant role in drier years. The second source is Bussia Bovi, a sub-Cru within Monforte’s superstar Bussia MGA. Lalù’s parcel is 320 metres above sea level, in the south of Bussia, between Bricco San Pietro and the area historically known as Bussia Arnulfo. The soils here are rich in sand, giving a perfumed wine with supple fruit and great delicacy—the yin to Roncaglie’s yang.

In the cellar, the fruit was mostly destemmed, retaining as many whole berries as possible—a process that allows for a portion of semi-carbonic maceration to lift the wine’s aromatic finesse. The Bussia portion fermented and matured in concrete; Roncaglie also fermented in concrete, but this portion was aged in large oak foudre.

That both vineyards could be classified as Barolo (and Roncaglie will be from 2023) says a great deal about the quality. The combination of translucent fruit, succulent texture, and vibrant freshness across the palate is a delight. Right now, the wine’s array of red fruits, anise and sarsaparilla flavours are tightly coiled, so a decant is recommended if you’re in a hurry. If not, open a few hours before serving and enjoy the wine’s clarity, neat weave of tannin and fleshly personality. 

“Just mid ruby. Lifted spice, cherry nose with hints of oatmeal, garden herbs and stones emerging with aeration. Gorgeous, sappy palate with grainy tannins weaved into the cherry fruit. Firm structure and lots of juice yet, at the same time, kind of taut.”
17++ points, Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Lalù Langhe Nebbiolo 2022
Lalù Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2020

Lalù Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2020

Organic. Lalù farms just 0.5 hectares in one of Monforte’s great Crus, Le Coste di Monforte. With an average altitude of 420 metres, this south-facing vineyard is the highest and southernmost vineyard in Monforte. The site perfectly fits Lalù’s preference for finesse and openness. Although its 35-year-old vines lie parallel to the Ginestra and Mosconi Crus, Barolo from this vineyard is typically prettier and rounder than its neighbours—this being attributed to the unusually high content of sand layered throughout the region’s Sant’Agata marls.

This year, the Barolo was mostly destemmed and fermented in a tronconique oak vat. It spent one month on skins, including just over two weeks with the cap submerged in the juice. Aging was in large oak vats (from Austria and Alto Adige) for two years before eight months in concrete.

This release is only Lalù’s second Barolo and explains why there is already so much excitement surrounding this producer. Sandwiched by two classic Barolo vintages, the 2020 is a more perfumed, elegant and approachable year than those on either side, and none the worse for it!  Layered with spicy red fruit, woody herb and rose petal flavours, the palate builds towards a rewarding, sensual finish framed by round, chalky tannins and a gorgeous, dried flower note. There’s a hint of classy oak (from the rising star Mittelburger cooperage in Alto Adige), but it works without deflecting from the wine’s clarity and perfume, even at this early stage. 

“Just mid ruby. Intense nose of dried fruit, damson and rosemary. Lush fruit given an edge by the bite of energetic tannins. The fruit becomes more and more pure on the palate. Fantastic focus and juiciness on the finish. The spicy fruit is reminiscent of Monforte d’Alba but with added energy. Dynamic.”
17.5 points, Walter Speller, jancisrobinson.com
Lalù Barolo Le Coste di Monforte 2020

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