Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy started something unique with Quealy Wines in 2003. With their son Tom McCarthy now el jefe chez Quealy, this pioneering peninsula estate is scaling ever greater heights. As with neighbour Barney Flanders of Garagiste, fruit quality was bang on the money in 2024; it’s just a pity there wasn’t more of it. “The flavours were incredibly concentrated,” Tom told us. “Despite low yields, the harvest was very kind. It was a joy to work.” Five organically farmed sites spread across the Merricks North (Tussie Mussie), Balnarring (Home Vineyard and Campbell & Christine) and Main Ridge (Musk Creek and Halarah) subregions form the backbone of the estate. Tom’s higher Main Ridge sites sit on rich red soils that produce big, strong canopies. When managed well—and Quealy is a virtuoso in this regard—these allow for long hang times. Pinot Noir from these sites tends towards the more delicate, savoury end of the spectrum. McCarthy lets the Gris hang longer in these higher, cooler vineyards, picking in the sweet spot, ensuring fresh acidity matches the big, complex flavour. “You have to be careful not to go too far, but also not be scared of having flavour in the wines”, he told us. The lower-lying Home and Campbell & Christine vineyards in Balnarring have poorer grey soils, smaller canopies and more sunshine, resulting in a more powerful rendition of Mornington Pinot–round and juicy with beautifully ripe tannins and immediate appeal. Grigio grown in the home vineyard is a different beast. Flavour comes fast to these dry-grown vines, meaning Tom and his team can pick early and be confident in the distinctly mineral, saline-driven profile this site consistently delivers. “It’s a real pleasure to work in a business that’s focused on single-vineyard expression,” Tom told us during a terrific tasting. “The point is to show the vineyard, to recognise and play to the site’s strengths. The result isn’t a winemaking outcome; it’s a vineyard outcome.” Tom McCarthy and Will Byles have hit their groove.