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Cantina D’Arcy

Hedonistic Pleasure! Tom Myers’ 2020 Barolo Preda and '22 Langhe Nebbiolo
Cantina D’Arcy

It’s not always the case that hype and rarity equate to quality, yet that’s certainly the case with Tom Myers’ tiny Piemonte start-up. It was always going to be fascinating to see what this talented, Burgundy-inspired winegrower would bring to the production of Piemontese Nebbiolo, and now we have a pretty good idea. “My favourite wines have always offered both finesse and hedonistic pleasure,” he told us last year. “I want to achieve that with Nebbiolo as well. Nebbiolo is a brilliant grape aromatically, but at times, it can be hard work to drink. I want my wines to make people smile as well as think.” So, it has come to pass: Tom’s early releases are wines that will both fascinate and put a smile on the faces of the lucky few who get to taste them. 

 

Myers’ connection to Burgundy and the great growers of France runs deep. A talented and deep-thinking young vigneron, he honed his skills in the great vineyards of Burgundy, the Rhône Valley, New Zealand, Australia and the Jura. His deep knowledge of best practice in the vineyard and cellar is evident to anyone who knows him. It has led to his consulting in Australia, Burgundy, and California.

 

Moving to Piemonte in 2017, Tom worked with Barolo’s iconic Rinaldi family, who later introduced him to the owners of the vines that he now leases: a small parcel in Barolo’s Preda Cru (that he shares with his good friend, Philine Isabelle Dienger) nestled between Cannubi and Vignane.

 

Preda faces east at the end of the Bussia Valley. Myers’ hectare of vines contains a large portion of old vines rooted in the sandy Sant’Agata marls prominent in this canton of Barolo. Covered by a thin layer of silt, the structure of these soils reminds Myers more of the lighter terroir of Ravera than, say, the profound clay-rich Brunate cru. Preda in his hands (we’ll discuss his winemaking below) results in aromatic, lacy Barolo of wonderful finesse and approachability. As Myers puts it, we’re “more on vibrant fruit and flowers rather than dried fruit, tannin and spice.” The 2020 Barolo Preda is a thing of beauty. 

 

Now working out of a small cantina on the Barolo-Novello road, Myers’ diminutive cellar is a reminder that you don’t need a lot to make great wines. His philosophy is a distillation of more than 12 years of experience with some of the world’s finest growers and leans on the great cellars of the Côte d’Or as much as the more famous cantinas of Piemonte. Myers brushes the wine onto the canvas rather than forcing it, with natural ferments, judicious use of bunches, restrained extraction and early bottling underpinning his fruit = terroir approach. Myers’ work with whole bunches—seldom encountered in high percentages in Piemonte—adds a great deal, helping to bring pretty primary aromas and finesse. 

 

“Good young, good old,” the great Burgundian Henri Jayer would say. In a region where tenderness and purity can be scarce, Myers is clearly aiming for wines that give seduction early yet equally age well. Whether it’s the cherry-fruited succulence of the Langhe Nebbiolo or the lucid, Burgundy-comes-to-Piemonte clarity of the Barolo Preda that gets you, both wines suggest he is onto something big. 

The Wines

Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2022

There’s no second-album syndrome for this beautiful wine. Myers’ Langhe Nebbiolo 2022 is drawn from the Bricco San Pietro, the MGA in Monforte d’Alba that lies east of the township. Rooted in the classic clay-rich marl soils of Sant’Agata, Myers’ parcel is set in a shady little conclave of the vineyard where the vines have been farmed organically for many years. This year, the cuvée was mostly destemmed (10-15% left as bunches), while natural ferments, measured time on skins and pinpoint extraction form the blueprint for this perfumed and sensual young Nebbiolo.

Matured in concrete for 11 months and bottled unfiltered, there’s a purity and perfumed delicacy that belies the warm, dry season. Indeed, Myers thinks the new release is more on the classical side than his 2020 (he sees 2022 as an enhanced version of the 2017 vintage). Myers’ passion for the aromatic complexity of fine Burgundy is again on show with this gloriously pretty expression of Piemonte. Expect all kinds of flowers, jubey, red fruit notes and a lick of subtle, nettle-like savouriness. The wine only builds from there. It’s delicate yet intense, with fine tannins, and it loves air at this stage (just shipped), so don’t be scared to decant. It’s not your average Langhe Nebbiolo, and it’s absolutely delicious.  


Cantina D'Arcy Langhe Nebbiolo 2022
Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020

Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020

Preda is nestled between Cannubi and Vignane at the end of the Bussia Valley. Myers’ parcel faces east at the top of the hill, where the thin Sant'Agata soils are laced with a high portion of active lime. It’s this combination of exposure and rocky soils that, in part, allows him to craft such an aromatic, mineral-edged expression of Barolo. The other half of the calculation lies in Myers’ innovative winemaking, for Nebbiolo at least.

The winemaking notes read more like Burgundy than Barolo (which, in turn, tells you much of what you need to know about the wine). Myers worked with 55% whole bunches, and the wine spent 18 days on skins. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered after 18 months on fine lees in a thick-staved Garbellotto botti, with no racking and late malolactic fermentation. The wine opens with loads of red fruits, gentle bunchy goodness, some sweetness and all kinds of flowers. A wine built on perfume!  It changes quite a bit with air, building depth and dialling up the dark cherry and spice. In short, don’t be in a rush and give it plenty of air. It really made us think of top, old-vine Chambolle—as though Roumier made Barolo! Regardless of who made it, this is one of the most perfumed, silken and downright charming Barolos you’re likely to lay your hands on.


Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020
Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020 (1500ml)

Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020 (1500ml)

Preda is nestled between Cannubi and Vignane at the end of the Bussia Valley. Myers’ parcel faces east at the top of the hill, where the thin Sant'Agata soils are laced with a high portion of active lime. It’s this combination of exposure and rocky soils that, in part, allows him to craft such an aromatic, mineral-edged expression of Barolo. The other half of the calculation lies in Myers’ innovative winemaking, for Nebbiolo at least.

The winemaking notes read more like Burgundy than Barolo (which, in turn, tells you much of what you need to know about the wine). Myers worked with 55% whole bunches, and the wine spent 18 days on skins. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered after 18 months on fine lees in a thick-staved Garbellotto botti, with no racking and late malolactic fermentation. The wine opens with loads of red fruits, gentle bunchy goodness, some sweetness and all kinds of flowers. A wine built on perfume!  It changes quite a bit with air, building depth and dialling up the dark cherry and spice. In short, don’t be in a rush and give it plenty of air. It really made us think of top, old-vine Chambolle—as though Roumier made Barolo! Regardless of who made it, this is one of the most perfumed, silken and downright charming Barolos you’re likely to lay your hands on.

Cantina D'Arcy Barolo Preda 2020 (1500ml)

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