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Larmandier-Bernier

Vertus Signalling: Some of the Most Exciting Wines in all Champagne
Larmandier-Bernier

“We’re in a new period for Champagne,” Vouette et Sourbée’s Bertrand Gautherot said several years ago. “Before, it was all about image; now, it is all about wine.” Gautherot’s statement—pointing out how much progress has been made in Champagne—is well illustrated by a humorous anecdote Rob shared with us this week. When Pierre Larmandier took over the vines from his mother and decided to abandon herbicides, he bought a plough from Burgundy and took it to a local mechanic to assemble. The mechanic proceeded to put the tines, or prongs, on upside down—he had never seen a plough before! That was in the late 1980s when viticulture in Champagne couldn’t hold a torch to regions like Burgundy or Bordeaux. That the region today produces wines fit to stand alongside the greatest of the world owes much to the Pierre Larmandiers of this world. 

 

You would have heard us talk about how the wines of this foundational grower continue to evolve and improve. They still have the energy and intense minerality they have always offered, and now there is even more intensity and layered complexity. Part of this evolution can be explained by what William Kelley terms “the aggregation of marginal gains”. From little things, big things grow. This might include higher trellising, the longer lees aging cycle, or that today, half of Larmandier’s production is made in large foudre, and it now uses 5000-litre Stockinger casks to store the reserve wines (see Key Points at the bottom of the offer). 

 

However, if such marginal gains take time to appear in the glass, a more profound evolution will be served by the arrival of Pierre and Sophie’s sons, Arthur and Georges. Arthur returned in 2017, followed by his younger brother Georges in late 2021. We’ve heard Pierre talk about how proud he feels working alongside his sons, and the feeling is mutual. “I have to say thank you to my parents. They have been devoting everything for 30 years and built something special,” says Arthur. “With my brother and I now working full-time, there is more time for us all to pay more attention to detail and focus on bringing more precision to our work.” You can see the benefit of the family’s collaborative approach in the transparency and diamond-cut beauty of the wines—those on the market now and those maturing in Champagne.

 

Peter Liem’s précis of the family style is as solid as the day it was written: “Larmandier-Bernier is one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs, producing wines of unusual detail and clarity of expression. The style is for Champagnes that are dry, minerally and terroir-driven, emphasising purity and finesse over richness or sheer power.” Another way of thinking might be to imagine a textural and racy white Burgundy with bubbles. The Egly-Ouriet of the Côte des Blancs, even. Just as in Burgundy, fastidious farming and harvesting low yields of ripe fruit remain the pillars of the quality and personality this grower achieves regardless of the year. “You just have to ensure the fruit is ripe,” says Arthur, “and the rest will follow.” 

 

I’m sure it is not quite that straightforward, but then Larmandier has a way of making it look serene: almost 30 years after Pierre and Sophie took the reins of a then little-known grower in Vertus, today, Larmandier-Bernier sits at the pinnacle of France’s most famous wine region. These new releases explain just why that is. 

The Wines

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)

Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites (having more clay in the soil) tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large-format casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). Fermentation and malolactic conversion take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Bottle mature for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release.

Despite its obvious crystalline and salty backdrop, in contrast to the Longitude cuvée, Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume. Pure and mineral, this offers texture and stone-fruited depth without sacrificing the cut-diamond precision and citrusy, chalky energy that is a given at this address. Extremely versatile at the table, both entry cuvées work with a wide range of dishes, including fish, terrines, any chicken dish (particularly lemon chicken) and most cheeses (except blue or strong washed-rind). This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright and beautifully focused. The Latitude contains 40% perpetual reserve wine dating back to 2004. It is usually a bit more approachable on release, but this year's version clearly needs time to soften. Today, citrus, floral and mineral notes abound on the steely finish.”
92 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 21 Disg. Apr 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)

Base 2021, Disg. April 2024. Latitude is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay from vineyards on the southern side of Vertus. These vineyards are on roughly the same latitude, hence the name, which also hints at the breadth of texture that wines from these sites—having more clay in the soil—tend to offer. In the cellar, Larmandier uses mostly large casks (almost all the wood now comes from Stockinger in Austria). 

Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place naturally, and there is no filtration. Latitude matures in bottle for more than two years before disgorgement and dosage at low, extra-brut levels (in this case, 3 g/L) at least six months before release. This bottling is based on the 2021 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. Upcoming releases will include fruit from some terrific vineyards in Villeneuve and Bergères, which will only further buttress the quality.

“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Latitude 1er Cru is bright, punchy and full of mineral-driven intensity. Crushed flowers, lemon peel, sage, mint and crushed rocks build as this potent, intensely saline Champagne opens in the glass. This is impressive. As always, the Latitude is a Champagne built on textural breadth and volume, typical of wines from the southern sector of Vertus. This release is based on 2019 and 40% a perpetual reserve that goes back to 2004. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 19. Disg. Sep 23) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)

Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness. William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This bottling is based on the 2020 vintage, with 40% reserve wine drawn from a ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004. 

“Based on the 2020 vintage and disgorged in November 2022, the new release of Larmandier's NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude wafts from the glass with aromas of sweet citrus fruit, fresh pastry, green apple and flowers. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and enveloping, its satiny attack segues into a racy, broad-shouldered mid-palate, concluding with a chalky finish.”
92 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The NV Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs Longitude 1er Cru is a powerful, ample wine. The Longitude builds beautifully in the glass, creamy and textured, with tons of resonance. Pear, white pepper, dried flowers, mint and chalk are all delineated in a Champagne that blends power and tension. This is all class.”
94 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 20 Disg. Feb 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)

An extended aging release, disgorged in September 2022. Like this grower’s Latitude, this is 100% Côte des Blancs Chardonnay (the vineyards are in Cramant, Avize, Oger and Vertus), yet the vineyards have thinner topsoils and so the vine roots plunge straight into the chalky bedrock. The name here refers to the vertical nature of the geographic locations of the vineyards as well as the style of wine resulting from the chalky soils of these sites, i.e. a more linear, mineral wine. While Larmandier’s Latitude is expansive across the palate, the Longitude is all about minerality, line and raciness.
William Kelley has called this wine “one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne”, and the high ratio of reserve wines (40% from their ‘perpetual’ reserve started in 2004) should leave you with little doubt as to the quality on offer. This special aged release is based on the 2017 vintage and has therefore spent considerably more time on lees than the traditional release. 

“Another lovely wine from Larmandier-Bernier, the 2017-base NV Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Longitude was disgorged in April 2020 with three grams per liter dosage. Mingling aromas of citrus oil, green apple and pear with hints of white flowers and fresh bread, it's medium to full-bodied, elegantly enveloping and precise, with a more mineral, chiseled profile than the Latitude bottling, reflecting its origins in optimally situated parcels in Vertus, Oger, Avize, Cramant. As I've written before, this is one of the finest non-vintage bottlings to be found in Champagne, and it comes warmly recommended.”
93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Longitude Blanc de Blancs NV (Base 17 Disg. Sept 2022) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)

2021, Disg. February 2024. The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mainly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (50+ years old) and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes are allowed to macerate for two to three days before the juice is drawn off, providing the wine’s colour and much of its body and flavour. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made with the addition of a little red wine.

As with all the Larmandier wines, the rosé ferments naturally. While the wines were previously made in concrete egg and stainless steel, since the 2021 vintage, it has aged in large, used oak barrels for at least two years in the cellars. This is a single-vintage wine (2021) but not labelled as such as it is only aged for two years on lees. Again, this is one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. A touch more delicate and racier than the 2020 before it, the new vintage is an exceptional release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it!  This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of 2 g/L. 


“Vinified in 500-liter barrels, it reveals a bouquet of redcurrant, orange zest and cranberry mingling with spices. Medium-bodied and precise, marked by the vintage's acidic signature and concluding with a long, perfumed finish, it’s one of the more delicate editions of this cuvée—particularly when compared to its immediate predecessor’s exuberant aromatics and phenolic structure.”
94 points, Kristaps Karklins, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)

The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mostly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (45 years old), and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes were allowed to macerate for a period before the juice was drawn off, providing the colour and much of the body and flavour for the wine. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and it requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made by the addition of a little red wine. Vive la difference!

As with all Larmandier’s wines it was naturally fermented. Part of this cuvée was raised in a Nomblot concrete egg and part in stainless steel, and more recently Larmandier has been also trialling amphora designed by Mizel Riouspeyrous from Domaine Arretxea. 

It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2019 is a spellbinding release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of three grams per litre. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.

It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2019 is a spellbinding release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of three grams per litre. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.

“Larmandier-Bernier's NV (2018) Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée is a very pretty wine. The style is a bit more floral and savory, with less vinous intensity than some previous editions, but plenty of ethereal nuance. This is an especially understated style. Dosage is 3 grams per liter.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The NV Extra Brut Rosé de Saignée (2018 base) will soon be disgorged, and readers will be able to identify it by its deeper, unusually saturated hue without looking at the small print. Bursting with aromas of pear, plums, orange rind and sweet berries, it's medium to full-bodied, round and enveloping, with a ripe core of fruit and the most phenolic presence I've tasted in this perennially superb cuvée. That makes this 2018 base a more vinous, gastronomic wine, which will offer interesting possibilities at the table.”
94 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
“The village of Vertus is unusual in the Côte des Blancs for playing host to a historical plantation of Pinot Noir. Here it is assembled with a little Pinot Gris by Côte des Blancs stalwarts Pierre and Sophie Larmandier into a striking, deep-cherry rosé de saignée (made by macerating the Pinot Noir skins in the juice at press). Absolutely bursting with strawberry and floral tones yet still manages to retain a linear, focused energy and supple texture that’s quite unusual for the style. A Côte des Blancs original.”
93 points, Tom Hewson, Decanter
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 18. Disg. Apr 2021) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorged. There is no dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement. 

Since the mid-‘90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. Still very young and brimming with textural richness and energy, the new release shows a little more flex than the previous vintage. Courtesy of an especially low-yielding year high in dry extract, the palate is buoyed with freshness and the chalky finish is incredibly long and scintillating. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish. 

“The 2017 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Terre de Vertus 1er Cru is creamy, open-knit and quite seductive. Readers will and a generous, sensual Champagne with plenty of early appeal. Vini􀀁cation and aging in oak softens the contours. Dried pear, crushed flowers, mint and chamomile build beautifully over time. This is a fine effort in a very challenging year. No dosage.”
93 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2017 (Disg. May 23)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)

Terre de Vertus is one of three single-terroir Blanc de Blancs produced at this estate and is certainly the most famous. It is from a parcel of vines on the chalky mid-slope of Vertus, traversing the 1er Cru lieux-dits of Les Barillers and Les Faucherets. These sites produce intensely mineral wines that recall the best of Le Mesnil (to the north) in their chalky raciness and drive.

This fermented naturally, with roughly 60% fermented and aged in neutral barrique and the other 40% in large Stockinger casks. Malolactic conversion began spontaneously, and the wines were left on their lees for nearly a year. After the second fermentation, the wine aged in bottle for another six years before being disgorged. There is no dosage in order to respect the purity of the terroir. The result is one of the most distinctive and mineral wines of the entire Champagne region—and one of the benchmark wines of the great grower movement. 

Since the mid-‘90s, this wine has always been non-dosé—long before it was fashionable. The Larmandiers made the decision because this particular terroir (when farmed in their way: old vines, biodynamics, low yields, etc.) works best without any additions. Still very young and brimming with textural richness and energy, the new release shows a little more flex than the previous vintage. Courtesy of an especially low-yielding year high in dry extract, the palate is buoyed with freshness and the chalky finish is incredibly long and scintillating. Try it with oysters, terrine, hard cheeses, roast chicken or grilled white fish. 

“The 2015 Brut Nature Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Terre de Vertus continues to show well, offering up generous aromas of peach, orange oil, ripe melon, white cherries, buttery pastry, orange oil and dried white flowers. Full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a vinous, muscular profile and a long, gently mordant finish, it's one of the more powerful wines in the range.”
93 points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Terre de Vertus Blanc de Blancs 2015 (Disg. May 23) (1500ml)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)

Disgorged September 2022. The Larmandier family vinifies fruit from two tiny plots in the heart of Avize (Chemin de Plivot planted in 1955, and Chemin de Flavigny planted in 1960) for this cuvée. Both are chalky parcels with very little topsoil, and both lie on the lower slopes of Avize (not far from Agrapart and Selosse’s La Fosse vineyard).

The winemaking is similar to the other cuvées, save for using smaller neutral barrels for the fermentations because of the smaller quantities of wine produced. The wines age in bottle for a minimum of five years and are then disgorged by hand with only 2 g/L dosage. It’s a stunning, racy example of Avize, a little deeper than Terre de Vertus, though more delicate and less fleshy than this grower’s Vieille Vigne du Levant.

“The 2015 Extra Brut Les Chemins d'Avize Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a broad, ample Champagne that reflects both vinification in wood and time on the lees. Lemon confit, marzipan, dried flowers, chamomile, sage and spice build in the glass. Powerful and resonant, with no hard edges, the 2015 is terrific. It's also a throwback to the style of the time, and one I must say I like a lot. This is a fine effort for the year.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The 2015 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize opens in the glass with aromas of citrus oil, verbena, fresh pasty, vanilla pod and fresh herbs. Medium to full-bodied, pillowy and chalky, with a vinous, rather concentrated profile and bright acids, it's a little compact out of the gates but appears to be built to age with grace.”
94+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Les Chemins d'Avize 2015 (Disg. Sep 2022)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)

Disgorged September 2022. This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where most of the grapes come from, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines).

Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here you have more flesh, weight and body.

The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. This release was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

Note: This review refers to a previous disgorgement. “The 2013 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a Champagne of real breadth and substance that captures the essence of these 50-70-year-old vines. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all amplified. Vinous and creamy, the 2013 builds beautifully with time in the glass, showing tremendous character and pedigree. The 2013 was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barrique and foudre. It's a super-classic Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter. Disgorged: May, 2022.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Larmandier family excelled in this cooler vintage, so it's unsurprising that the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant has turned out beautifully. Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, white flowers, oyster shell and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, layered and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, terrific tension and a long, racy finish.”
96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. Sep 22)
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

This Blanc de Blancs was historically labelled Vieille Vigne de Cramant. Nothing has changed save for the name, which is now inspired by the vineyard where most of the grapes come from, Bourron du Levant (planted in 1960). The balance comes from a 0.5-hectare holding in the neighbouring terroir of Le Fond du Bâteau (with 75-year-old vines). 

Both plots are at the heart of Cramant’s southeast-facing slopes on the flanks of the Butte de Saran. Basking in the first rays of the morning sun, these vineyards give wonderfully ripe, layered wines. The old vines’ deep root system combines with the terroir to bring a wine of glowing density and opulence. It offers a fascinating, concentrated and stone-fruited contrast to the other Larmandier cuvées (not to mention other producers’ Cramant wines). It remains a super-mineral wine, but here you have more flesh, weight and body. 

The winemaking across each of Larmandier’s single-terroir wines is similar. Here, it is spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, 12 months in large Stockinger barrels and no filtration. This cuvée, however, spends at least eight years in bottle on lees. This release was disgorged with 2 g/L dosage.

“The 2013 Extra Brut Vieille Vigne de Levant Grand Cru is a Champagne of real breadth and substance that captures the essence of these 50-70-year-old vines. Apricot, chamomile, dried flowers and a kiss of oak are all amplified. Vinous and creamy, the 2013 builds beautifully with time in the glass, showing tremendous character and pedigree. The 2013 was fermented and aged in a combination of neutral barrique and foudre. Its a super-classic Larmandier-Bernier Champagne. Dosage is 2 grams per liter.”
95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous
“The Larmandier family excelled in this cooler vintage, so it's unsurprising that the 2013 Extra-Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant has turned out beautifully. Wafting from the glass with notes of crisp yellow orchard fruit, brioche, white flowers, oyster shell and honeycomb, it's medium to full-bodied, deep, layered and incisive, with a tangy spine of acidity, terrific tension and a long, racy finish.”
96+ points, William Kelley, The Wine Advocate
Champagne Larmandier-Bernier Grand Cru Vieille Vigne du Levant 2013 (Disg. May 22) (1500ml)

“Larmandier-Bernier numbers among the Côte de Blanc's—and Champagne's—finest estates. Based in Vertus, the Larmandier family farms organically and harvest late, vinifying the resulting wines in wood. The result is vinous, elegantly muscular Champagnes that are concentrated but precise. In a region that still produces far too many meager, brittle wines, Larmander-Bernier reminds us of the plenitude and texture of which great Champagne is capable.” William Kelley, The Wine Advocate

“Pierre and Sophie Larmandier craft dramatic, vinous wines of real personality and class. Sustainable farming practices, indigenous fermentations and aging in cask are some of the cornerstones of an approach that yields distinctly potent, textured wines full of character.” Antonio Galloni, Vinous

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    Three words to capture Michael Downer’s new flagship wines? Try class, vibrancy and del...
    Three words to capture Michael Downer’s new flagship wines? Try class, vibrancy and deliciousness. For the first time, the Rocket Chardonnay, Apoll...

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  • Kings County Distillery
    Kings County Distillery
    Every industry needs its trailblazers and mavericks. For American Whiskey, that’s Colin...
    Every industry needs its trailblazers and mavericks. For American Whiskey, that’s Colin Spoelman. Spoelman’s Whiskey journey has taken him some way...

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