“We’re in a new period for Champagne,” Vouette et Sourbée’s Bertrand Gautherot said several years ago. “Before, it was all about image; now, it is all about wine.” Gautherot’s statement—pointing out how much progress has been made in Champagne—is well illustrated by a humorous anecdote Rob shared with us this week. When Pierre Larmandier took over the vines from his mother and decided to abandon herbicides, he bought a plough from Burgundy and took it to a local mechanic to assemble. The mechanic proceeded to put the tines, or prongs, on upside down—he had never seen a plough before! That was in the late 1980s when viticulture in Champagne couldn’t hold a torch to regions like Burgundy or Bordeaux. That the region today produces wines fit to stand alongside the greatest of the world owes much to the Pierre Larmandiers of this world. You would have heard us talk about how the wines of this foundational grower continue to evolve and improve. They still have the energy and intense minerality they have always offered, and now there is even more intensity and layered complexity. Part of this evolution can be explained by what William Kelley terms “the aggregation of marginal gains”. From little things, big things grow. This might include higher trellising, the longer lees aging cycle, or that today, half of Larmandier’s production is made in large foudre, and it now uses 5000-litre Stockinger casks to store the reserve wines (see Key Points at the bottom of the offer). However, if such marginal gains take time to appear in the glass, a more profound evolution will be served by the arrival of Pierre and Sophie’s sons, Arthur and Georges. Arthur returned in 2017, followed by his younger brother Georges in late 2021. We’ve heard Pierre talk about how proud he feels working alongside his sons, and the feeling is mutual. “I have to say thank you to my parents. They have been devoting everything for 30 years and built something special,” says Arthur. “With my brother and I now working full-time, there is more time for us all to pay more attention to detail and focus on bringing more precision to our work.” You can see the benefit of the family’s collaborative approach in the transparency and diamond-cut beauty of the wines—those on the market now and those maturing in Champagne. Peter Liem’s précis of the family style is as solid as the day it was written: “Larmandier-Bernier is one of the finest estates in the Côte des Blancs, producing wines of unusual detail and clarity of expression. The style is for Champagnes that are dry, minerally and terroir-driven, emphasising purity and finesse over richness or sheer power.” Another way of thinking might be to imagine a textural and racy white Burgundy with bubbles. The Egly-Ouriet of the Côte des Blancs, even. Just as in Burgundy, fastidious farming and harvesting low yields of ripe fruit remain the pillars of the quality and personality this grower achieves regardless of the year. “You just have to ensure the fruit is ripe,” says Arthur, “and the rest will follow.” I’m sure it is not quite that straightforward, but then Larmandier has a way of making it look serene: almost 30 years after Pierre and Sophie took the reins of a then little-known grower in Vertus, today, Larmandier-Bernier sits at the pinnacle of France’s most famous wine region. These new releases explain just why that is.