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The variety behind some of northeast Italy’s most exciting whites, Friulano (né Tocai Friulano) first landed in Australia in the 1970s. Quealy sourced its cuttings from the vineyard of Slovenian émigré Denis Pasut in Mildura, grafting over a block of 1996 Chardonnay at their Balnarring vineyard as early as 2004. Above all, quality Friulano needs two things: low yields and lots of attention. “Friulano is a bugger to work with, but well worth the effort,” notes Tom McCarthy. That’s perhaps why the variety has yet to take off in Australia. Quealy manages yields at flowering—in effect, halving the already low potential yields from this certified-organic, dry-grown site—and manages the canopy prudently to manage sun exposure.
The fruit was picked by hand on 27th April and destemmed to open fermenters, where it rested on skins at cool temperatures for 13 days. To ensure a soft, balanced texture, only the free-run juice was drawn off to a large tank, where it went through full malolactic conversion. The wine then matured in barrel until bottling. 2022’s small berries and yields have translated to powerful, concentrated flavour in the glass. It is perfumed and ripe with orchard fruits, pepper spice and an unctuously smooth texture crimped by lovely phenolic grip. As is the norm with this wine, it is best served alongside a great dish and will boost the pleasure of a wide range of cuisines.