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Quealy Winemakers

Pioneering Mornington Peninsula

‘Pioneers’ is not a word we throw around loosely, but it’s precisely the right term to describe Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy. This power couple was not only part of the early wave of growers to begin seriously exploring and planting the Mornington Peninsula in the early ‘90s, but they were also the producer to identify this area’s potential with Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio and their work with this variety made the grape a household name in Australia. Study trips to Collio (1995), Alsace (1998) and the pilgrimage to Josko Gravner (2006), each had a profound influence on Quealy and McCarthy’s thinking—and led to some of Australia’s finest, and earliest attempts at quality skin contact wines: an adventure that continues today.    

Now there is a generational shift at play with Tom McCarthy, the eldest son of Kathleen and Kevin starting to make his mark. Tom McCarthy took over as chief winemaker at Quealy in 2019 with Kevin—as Tom puts it—as his “consultant and night shift”. While the outstanding vibrancy of the latest releases underlines what Tom is bringing to the table, he’s also quick to point out that he’s working with Quealy’s established house philosophy of many years, which includes no pressings (and therefore no need for fining), no acidification, low and late sulphur additions and a reliance on old oak.

Not content simply playing the role of trailblazer, today this pioneering Estate is being driven to new heights by a young team making their mark in both vineyard and winery.

In the vineyards, Quealy’s full-time viticulturist Lucas Blanck (son of leading Alsace vigneron Frédéric Blanck) has overseen a major renovation of the Balnarring home vineyard, including the implementation of organic certification, dryland farming, a rotational cover crop program (for nutrition and soil structure) and replanting nearly 20% of the vineyard to Ribolla Gialla, Pinot Grigio et al. His work underpins the quality we’re seeing in today’s wines and was recently recognized by the judges of the Young Gun of Wine Vineyard of the Year awards.

The Quealy range is a many-splendoured thing. Four vineyards lie at the heart of the portfolio. The Home Block in Balnarring was planted in 1982 and has some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines on the Peninsula. This is also the home to Quealy’s oldest Pinot Grigio, and the aromatic varieties of Moscato Giallo, Friulano and Riesling, as well as some more recent plantings of Malvasia and Ribolla Gialla. A little Chardonnay from the original plantings also remains. As of 2019, the Home Block is certified organic.

Kathleen Quealy planted the Musk Creek vineyard in 1997. Perched atop Main Ridge, overlooking Westernport Bay and the heads, it’s the coolest site in the portfolio, bestowing exceptional late-ripening Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris. On the red soils of Merricks North, there’s the Tussie Mussie vineyard, and back in Balnarring we have Campbell & Christine, again planted by Quealy (for the owners) in 1994. Each of these sites is managed entirely by the Quealy team and, with the current exception of Musk Creek, all are farmed organically.

Much of the narrative surrounding this producer has focussed on the winemaking side of the story. Yet the Quealy team has also earned the right to be called pioneers for their recognition of potential in the region, the establishment of organic practice, and the planting of previously overlooked varieties they believed would (and did) excel.

Currently Available

Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Gris 2023

Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Gris 2023

Managed by the Quealy team, the Tussie Mussie vineyard was planted on the site of a former rose farm in 2007 (hence the name—tussie mussie is an old term for a flower bouquet). Located in Merricks North, the vineyard’s three hectares of Pinot Noir and Gris vines are rooted in the Peninsula’s most prized soil: deep, red volcanic clays. Combined with the site’s northern location and north-facing aspect, these soils allow for slow ripening—key to developing complexity while maintaining bright natural acidity. The fruit was picked over two passes in late March and early April. The berries arrived at the winery in excellent condition: small, glossy-coloured and brimming with intense flavour. The fruit was pressed as whole bunches using a long cycle and fermented mostly in tank―10% was in barrel―with some solids. This was followed by seven months’ maturation on lees. It’s clear the 2023 season was a winner for whites at this address. This Tussie Mussie Gris is flush with fleshy fruits, flowers and spice with a delicious lick of marine salinity, seamless texture and balance and an elegant, powerfully flavoured close.

Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Gris 2023
Quealy Lina Lool 2020

Quealy Lina Lool 2020

This is named after the aromatic compounds stored in the skins of Moscato Giallo. The 2020 is a blend of Friulano (40%), Moscato Giallo (32%), Riesling (16%) and Malvasia Istriana (12%), all from Quealy’s Balnarring home block. The grapes were added to a rolling ferment as they were harvested, to open-top amphorae, and the wine spent six months on skins. It was then basket-pressed, roughly settled and allowed to mature in old French puncheons before being bottled 12 months later. In a season defined by low yields, the less common varieties on the peninsula fared much better than the more traditional Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. The long and cool ripening conditions allowed the later ripening varieties to develop flavour and character at a relaxed rate and has resulted in a wine that is teeming with bright aromatics, dense and full flavours and a lovely grippy structure. Ripe citrus and white florals emanate from the glass, while savoury flavours work in tandem with bright and ripe citrus, grippy structure, balanced acidity and a saline splash to close.

In a season defined by low yields, the less common varieties on the peninsula fared much better than the more traditional Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. The long and cool ripening conditions allowed the later ripening varieties to develop flavour and character at a relaxed rate and has resulted in a wine that is teeming with bright aromatics, dense and full flavours and a lovely grippy structure. Ripe citrus and white florals emanate from the glass, while savoury flavours work in tandem with bright and ripe citrus, grippy structure, balanced acidity and a saline splash to close.

“Zesty oily quality, citrus essential oils, apricot, a bit of fresh aromatic herbs, pastry with sweet cream and pickled ginger. That touch of something ‘pickled’ (by no means vinegar, maybe preserved is a better word), gives a nice savoury edge to the sweet perfume. Aromas are accentuated just enough, tamed from being extreme with a cleansing bitterness and zesty bite, pithy salty quality on the palate. Cinnamon, ginger, ruby grapefruit on the finish. So good.”
92 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
Quealy Lina Lool 2020
Quealy Balnarring Pinot Grigio 2024

Quealy Balnarring Pinot Grigio 2024

This year’s Balnarring Pinot Grigio is drawn from the Hester and Campbell & Christine vineyards. Both sites are organically managed and lie less than three kilometres from the winery, where the fruit arrives within an hour of picking. The grapes were picked by hand on 14th and 15th March and pressed as bunches. The Quealy team use only the most delicate portion of the press cycle, meaning the juice yield per tonne tends to be extremely low. The juice is left to settle overnight without sulphuring. In the morning, the wine is racked off its gross lees and left to begin spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. After primary fermentation, malolactic conversion ensues before naturally stopping due to the winter temperatures. The wine is sulphured and bottled unfiltered.As has been the case for a few years now, the 2024 season was marked by poor flowering and low yields of intensely concentrated, healthy fruit. It’s a wonderfully perfumed release, just teeming with apples, pears, blossoms and delicate spice. The texture is spot-on, too, with mineral tension, svelte phenolic grip and juicy, crunchy fruit all working in harmony. 

“Bright, light yellow hue; bright and fragrant, with fresh yeastiness overlying a whiff of gardenia. Delicious flavour, lots of fruit as well as the faintest impression of sweetness, all harmonious and charming on the farewell.”
92 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
Quealy Balnarring Pinot Grigio 2024
Quealy Friulano 2022

Quealy Friulano 2022

The variety behind some of northeast Italy’s most exciting whites, Friulano (né Tocai Friulano) first landed in Australia in the 1970s. Quealy sourced its cuttings from the vineyard of Slovenian émigré Denis Pasut in Mildura, grafting over a block of 1996 Chardonnay at their Balnarring vineyard as early as 2004. Above all, quality Friulano needs two things: low yields and lots of attention. “Friulano is a bugger to work with, but well worth the effort,” notes Tom McCarthy. That’s perhaps why the variety has yet to take off in Australia. Quealy manages yields at flowering—in effect, halving the already low potential yields from this certified-organic, dry-grown site—and manages the canopy prudently to manage sun exposure. The fruit was picked by hand on 27th April and destemmed to open fermenters, where it rested on skins at cool temperatures for 13 days. To ensure a soft, balanced texture, only the free-run juice was drawn off to a large tank, where it went through full malolactic conversion. The wine then matured in barrel until bottling. 2022’s small berries and yields have translated to powerful, concentrated flavour in the glass. It is perfumed and ripe with orchard fruits, pepper spice and an unctuously smooth texture crimped by lovely phenolic grip. As is the norm with this wine, it is best served alongside a great dish and will boost the pleasure of a wide range of cuisines. 

“Straw-gold colour, a touch of haze noted. Honeyed ginger, cumin and persimmon fruit aromatics. A savoury palate, grapefruit and cumquat at the core with layers of African spices, ginger and mandarin peel built over the top of it. Carries long with distinct tannins drying the finish. A lot happening here and will benefit from serving with food.”
93 points, Stuart Knox, The Real Review
Quealy Friulano 2022
Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Noir 2023

Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Noir 2023

Quealy’s Tussie Mussie vineyard is a three-hectare, north-facing site in Merricks North planted to Pinot Noir and Pinot Gris.  The Pinot vines are in the lower and central part of the vineyard, and the clone is 777—or the ‘Morey clone’, to give its more romantic nickname. It’s a low-yielding cultivar, and Quealy prunes the vine to a single, arched cane, ensuring plenty of light and space around each cluster. These vines are dry-grown and managed organically, with certification due shortly. Tom McCarthy describes the 2023 season as a “rinse and repeat” of the previous year, with yields again affected by poor flowering but fruit quality exceptional. The intense, low-yielding conditions provided the perfect foil to glimpse this vineyard’s true potential. The fruit was picked at the end of March and fermented in two batches: one whole bunch and the other destemmed. It was gently pressed after 25 days and matured in a combination of new (25%), one-, two- and three-year-old barrels. The wine was bottled after 10 months. Always the most open of the Quealy Pinot Noirs, Tussie Mussie 2023 is bright and perfumed with nice, complexing notes from the bunch and plenty of pure berry fruits, spice and woodsy earth. Savoury, fresh and punchy, it will look even better with a nice bowl of duck ragu. 

“Medium-depth of purple-tinged ruby, with aromas of stemmy whole-bunch ferment, a hint of charry oak, all in balance, and the rich cherry fruit chimes in to give the wine balance and completeness. A hint of five spice. Good depth and succulent fruit sweetness. Finishes out with a long and satisfying finish. Delicious finer boned pinot noir now and for several years hence.”
93 points, Huon Hooke, The Real Review
Quealy Tussie Mussie Pinot Noir 2023
Quealy Musk Creek Pinot Gris 2023

Quealy Musk Creek Pinot Gris 2023

If you ask Tom McCarthy to describe the difference between his Grigio and Gris, he'll tell you Quealy’s single-vineyard Pinot Gris comes from higher vineyards. This means the grapes need to be left on the vine to ripen into late autumn, and they produce headier, fuller-bodied wines. Conversely, the Grigio comes from the warmer Balnarring sites where the fruit is picked earlier and wines are racier. This is 100% estate Mornington Pinot Gris sourced from basalt-derived volcanic soils in the Musk Creek vineyard. The dry-grown, own-rooted vines were planted in 1997 and enjoy a north-north-east aspect. This site enjoys cooler conditions and ripens later than Tussie Mussie. It’s perched at 180-210 metres altitude atop Main Ridge. Here, it overlooks Western Port and the heads, and the persistent, cooling breeze from Bass Strait ensures the fruit maintains freshness. The site produces bunches of tiny pink berries with excellent acidity, resulting in a deeper, spicier, more complex and mineral gris. The fruit is always hand-harvested.The ‘Alsatian-style’ press cycle is slow and long. Whole bunches are loaded and gently extracted over six hours to capture only the most delicate phenolics. The juice is then racked and mostly fermented (75%) in stainless steel, while the rest goes to French puncheons (10% new) for structure and complexity. There is no bâtonnage.

“Serious business this wine. Beautiful bright golden colour. It’s the whole picture, it’s complete and coherent with a complex bouquet and intense flavour profile. Almond paste, honeydew melon, papaya, hints of pink tropical fruit, red apple skin and pink grapefruit. The texture is chalky, lightly creamy, papaya flesh-like and infused with phenolics taking warming cinnamon spice for a long ride. Potent aromas and flavours with great positive vibrations. This the wine.”
95 points, Kasia Sobiesiak, The Wine Front
“Lovers of pinot gris rejoice – this is luscious, flavoursome and deeply satisfying. Full of Packham pears and pear essence, lemon curd sprinkled with ginger powder; it’s textural, the palate plumped up with good flavour and malted-milk lees. Yet not too heavy, not too light – just right.” 95 points, Jane Faulkner, Top Rated: Halliday Wine Companion 2025
95 points, Jane Faulkner, Top Rated: Halliday Wine Companion 2025
Quealy Musk Creek Pinot Gris 2023
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“Kathleen Quealy and Kevin McCarthy were among the early waves of winemakers on the Mornington Peninsula. They challenged the status quo - most publicly by introducing Mornington Peninsula pinot gris/grigio (with great success). Behind this was improvement and diversification in site selection, plus viticulture and winemaking techniques that allowed their business to grow significantly.” Rating: ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ James Halliday, Winecompanion.com.au

“This husband and wife winemaking team have done much to change the face of Australian wine, bringing pinot gris/grigio into the mainstream and championing alternative varieties ... The future looks bright for Quealy Winemakers, with eldest son Tom joining the business in 2012 ... Great things are seldom born of conformity.” Huon Hooke, Gourmet Traveller Wine

Country

Australia

Primary Region

Mornington Peninsula, Victoria

People

Winemakers: Tom McCarthy, Kathleen Quealy

Availability

National

Most Recent Offer

  • Quealy: The 2023 Pinot Noirs
    Quealy: The 2023 Pinot Noirs
    “2023 will be remembered as one of those great vintages,” says Tom McCarthy. “It was an...
    “2023 will be remembered as one of those great vintages,” says Tom McCarthy. “It was an exceptional year with perfect ripening conditions—there jus...

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