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Tom Myers’ Dolcetto draws fruit from his six rows of vines in Barolo’s Preda Cru, blended with a friend’s vineyard in Diano d’Alba, just south of Alba. While Myers admits he is still figuring out exactly what he is looking for from this variety, he has gone in at the deep end with this release, searching for a level of aromatic complexity found only in the region’s top examples. To do this, he has worked with a large percentage of whole clusters across three separate vinifications: one 100% whole bunch; one 100% destemmed; and one 50% whole bunch. All ferments were spontaneous and occurred in steel before aging in third- and fourth-use Burgundy barrels for 14 months.
A serious “wow” wine, this Dolcetto packs an extraordinary amount of presence for a wine of only 12% alcohol. First, it is gorgeously aromatic, with layers of dark plum, mulberry, blackberry and liquorice flecked with pressed violets. Then, the palate is fleshy and open-knit, balanced beautifully between its feathery, textured fruit and vibrant, energetic structure. Already drinking brilliantly, it’s one of those bottles that empties far too quickly. Sadly we have only five boxes!