Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 20. Disg. Feb 23)

The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mostly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (45 years old), and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes are allowed to macerate for a period of two to three days before the juice is drawn off, providing the wine’s colour and much of its body and flavour. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made with the addition of a little red wine. Vive la différence! As with all Larmandier’s wines, it fermented naturally. Part of this cuvée was raised in a Nomblot concrete egg and part in stainless steel. More recently, Larmandier has also been trialling amphorae designed by Mizel Riouspeyrous from Domaine Arretxea.

It’s one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. The 2020 is an exceptional release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it! This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of 2 g/L. It is a superb release that will be even better with a year or two in the cellar.