Champagne Larmandier-Bernier 1er Cru Rosé de Saignée NV (Base 21. Disg. Feb 24)

2021, Disg. February 2024. The Rosé de Saignée is drawn mainly from what are thought to be the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Vertus (50+ years old) and one of this village’s very last 100% Pinot vineyards. In fact, the vineyard is a co-planted blend of 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Pinot Gris, with both varieties contributing to this wine. The grapes are allowed to macerate for two to three days before the juice is drawn off, providing the wine’s colour and much of its body and flavour. This saignée technique is now rare in Champagne, primarily as it is a demanding method of vinification and requires grapes with an excellent degree of maturity. Most rosé in Champagne is made with the addition of a little red wine.

As with all the Larmandier wines, the rosé ferments naturally. While the wines were previously made in concrete egg and stainless steel, since the 2021 vintage, it has aged in large, used oak barrels for at least two years in the cellars. This is a single-vintage wine (2021) but not labelled as such as it is only aged for two years on lees. Again, this is one of Champagne’s wow wines, repeatedly compared to a Chambolle-Musigny. In short, it’s a Champagne that can stop drinkers in their tracks. A touch more delicate and racier than the 2020 before it, the new vintage is an exceptional release built on energy and crystalline tension. Although it drinks beautifully on its own, it has the depth to go with smoked or grilled salmon. Yes, do that—you won’t regret it!  This bottling was disgorged with a discreet dosage of 2 g/L.