Domaine Moreau-Naudet Chablis 2020

Moreau’s village Chablis is drawn mostly from 20- to 30-year-old vineyards in Préhy and Courgis, both in the south of Chablis. Then, there are parcels in Chablis and Chichée (under the Premier Cru vines of Vaugiraut/Vosgros). All up, the domaine works with 30 parcels scattered across the appellation, representing a variety of soil structures and exposures. All the fruit from the younger vines is sold off in bulk, lifting the standard in general.

The 2020 Chablis was picked over various dates, depending on the plot. The fruit was subject to a very gentle four-hour press, and the juice was fermented with natural yeasts (still a rarity in Chablis). It was raised mostly in tank, yet the élevage was unhurried and the wine spent 20 months on lees—considerably longer than most Chablis of this level. These traditional methods—along with hand-harvesting, the quality of the terroir, the low yields and the full ripeness levels at which the fruit is harvested—help to explain the mouthcoating texture, salty depths and, in general, the quality that is on offer.