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Domaine des Lises

Son of A Gun: Terrific Northern Rhône from La Famille Graillot

Maxime Graillot no longer stands in the shadow of his celebrated father. Today he has the senior winemaking role at Domaine Alain Graillot and is carving out his own chapter in the history of the Northern Rhône. Naturally, he is best known for the outstanding wines that bear his own name. The latest releases from Maxime’s own vineyards compare very favourably to those of Domaine Alain Graillot, ignoring obvious stylistic differences. Displaying an intensity and minerality as though they were a birthright, the leitmotif in Maxime’s wines is juiciness, freshness and poise. It’s these qualities that are setting them well on the way to becoming regional benchmarks—if they are not already.

Maxime Graillot’s Estate-grown Crozes, Domaine des Lises, comes from a single vineyard near the village of Beaumont-Monteux. Here, in the most south-easterly part of the appellation, the soils are full of gravel and alluvial stones, low in clay and fast draining—very similar to the Domaine Alain Graillot soils in Les Chênes Verts, just to the north. This soil type lends itself to a refined, aromatic Syrah with a pronounced savoury profile. Planted throughout the 1980s, the vines are now managed organically.

Like the Alain Graillot wines, the fermentations are entirely natural, although Graillot Jr. uses only a small whole bunch component, usually in the realm of 20-30%, and Maxime’s Crozes tends to ‘come around’ earlier than the wines that carry the Alain Graillot name

Equis is Graillot’s boutique negocé, established with Maxime’s long-term friend, and talented winemaking partner, Thomas Schmittel. We ship two wines in the range, sourced from a roster of first-rate, cultivated vineyards where Graillot and Schmittel have a close working relationship with the growers.

In terms of volume, the deliciously playful Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage is the ‘poster wine’ of the project. The fruit for this early-drinking Crozes is sourced from a mature, organically farmed and gravelly site in Pont de l’Isère that has not seen any herbicide or pesticide use for 10 years. The guys have also settled, for now, on a more composite élevage for this wine, which is now raised in a mixture of concrete tank (60%) and old oak (in a range of formats). As intended, this juicy, gluggable Crozes is all about the purity and primary fruit freshness; a Crozes for thirst—though it does not want for fruit intensity or crisp structure.

The Equis Cornas is drawn predominantly from a 20-year-old parcel on the slopes of the great Cornas lieu-dit, Les Chaillots, with the balance from old-vine parcels in La Sabarotte and La Côte. All are hillside sites where the soils are very rich in granite. The vines have always been organically managed, and the owner/grower is a respected friend of the Graillot clan.  Although it is made from purchased fruit, Max and Thomas are quick to point out that they could not manage the vines any better themselves!

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Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2021

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2021

The Les Pends lieu-dit is one of the very finest for white in Crozes-Hermitage. Maxime Graillot had been waiting and waiting to get a parcel and finally succeeded in 2014. It’s a sloping, south-facing hillside on white clay and chalk described by Rhône authority John Livingstone-Learmonth as a “high, high-quality terroir”. The site’s appeal lies in its ability to ripen its fruit while retaining a mouth-watering structure courtesy of the limestone-rich soils. Simply, Les Pends is one of the most coveted terroirs in the region for white grapes, and Maxime’s wine—full of alluring floral fruit and stony intensity—explains why. Graillot owns just 0.4 hectares of 40-year-old vines densely planted to 75% Marsanne and 25% Roussanne. The grapes are whole bunch-pressed, spontaneously fermented and raised in 600-litre demi-muid and a 300-litre cigar. Unlike the Domaine Alain Graillot white—grown on the deep alluvial soils of Pont-de-l’Isère—Graillot does not block the malolactic conversion; the limestone soils provide enough freshness and tension. The 2021 is a seriously classy white Crozes—fleshy yet racy, floral and honeyed and with a long juicy close. A fabulous white Rhône.

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Blanc 2021
Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2021

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2021

As always, Maxime’s estate Crozes comes from vineyards near the village of Beaumont-Monteux, only a few kilometres from the Domaine Alain Graillot vines. The lieux-dits are called Les Bosquets and Les Pichères. Here, in the most south-easterly part of the appellation, the fast-draining soils are made up mostly of alluvial stones and gravel. They are low in clay and, in fact, very similar to the Domaine Alain Graillot soils in Les Chênes Verts, just to the north. Planted throughout the 1980s, the vines are now managed organically (certification is due soon). The fermentations are entirely natural, and Graillot Jr. uses only a small whole-bunch component, usually in the realm of 20-30%. It is, therefore, a wine that tends to ‘come around’ earlier than the 100% whole-bunch wines that carry the Alain Graillot name. The 2021 was fermented in concrete vats and then racked into one-, two- and three-year-old Burgundy barrels—purchased from some of the top estates—and a 12-hectolitre Stockinger cask. There is also a tiny component (less than 10%) of new barrels purchased from the Atelier Centre France, whose bespoke steam-bent barrels are now used at Guiberteau, Didier Dagueneau and François Chidaine. The wine spent 11 months in barrel and was brought together for three months in large fût tronconique. It is bottled unfiltered.A brilliant wine! Although it was a tricky year—frost, hail and lots of pressure—the 2021 is a fabulous release for this wine. It’s sappy and mineral with a delicious core of blackberry, dark cherry and iodine scented fruit and a twist of herbal/smoky complexity. Graillot is now aging this wine for six months longer to allow for finer integration between the wine’s fruit and tannin, and it has really worked here. Those who love classic Northern Rhône Syrah will be thrilled.

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge 2021
Equis Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage 2023

Equis Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage 2023

Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel’s nouveau-style Crozes is sourced primarily from a mature, gravelly, organically farmed site in Pont-de-l’Isère. This site is owned and managed by a good friend and neighbour of the Graillot clan, and the vigneron and producer work closely together. This collaboration has seen the Equinoxe cuvée reach ever-greater heights. Fully destemmed, the wine fermented in concrete tanks and large wooden tronconique vats (with a degree of carbonic maceration) and matured for nine months in the same vessel. This is gorgeously fleshy, forward, drink-it-straight-from-the-bottle kind of Crozes. 

“Enticing peppery edge to the sweet blackberries and black cherries. There’s some meatiness and intensity here with a spicy edge to the sweet fruit. Brooding and complex with a nice spicy, vivid edge. But overall, this is about drinkability.”
93 points, Jamie Goode, wineanorak.com
Equis Equinoxe Crozes-Hermitage 2023
Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Vignes Franches 2022

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Vignes Franches 2022

In 2008, Alain and Maxime Graillot took mass-selection cuttings from the recently retired Raymond Trollat, a storied grape-grower and winemaker whose vineyards lie in Saint-Joseph’s historic heartland of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. Trollat identified these vines as Sérine, a selection believed to be an old type of Syrah that was practically wiped out of the northern Rhône when new, more productive, disease-resistant clones became available. The Graillots planted the cuttings on a tiny 0.2 hectares of sandy soil in Beaumont-Monteux, near Maxime’s core vineyard. As the name suggests, the vines are on their own roots (ungrafted)—Vignes Franches is franc de pied by another name. There are just six rows, and now that the vines are fruitful, the wine is made in a single six-year-old Stockinger foudre. The grapes are mostly destemmed, and the wine ages for as long as Maxime sees fit; there is no commercial impetus with this wine—one reason why it has taken us a while to get an allocation! We only found out about this wine when it was served to us blind by Romain Guiberteau over lunch. We immediately started pestering Max for a few bottles.  With so many variables in play—vine age, clone, terroir, yield, season—Graillot is not ready to draw any hard-and-fast conclusions on how this wine differs from his ‘classic’ Crozes-Hermitage. So far, he sees a deeper mineral seam, and the wine has lovely purity and very fine tannins. The answers to all other questions lie at the end of a corkscrew.

Domaine des Lises Crozes-Hermitage Rouge Vignes Franches 2022
Equis Cornas 2020

Equis Cornas 2020

This Cornas is drawn from the vines of a grower the Graillot family has known for decades. There are three parcels: 25% is from a 20-year-old site on the slopes of the great Cornas lieu-dit Les Chaillots; La Sabarotte (with 35-year-old vines) contributes another 25%; and La Côte (80- to 90-year-old vines, on a 50% gradient) makes up the other half. All are on hillsides where the soils are very rich in granite. The vines have always been organically managed by the owner/grower, Elie Bancel—one of the great characters of the Rhône. Although it is made from purchased fruit, Max and Thomas are quick to point out that they could not manage the vines any better themselves! They also retain the final say as to when the grapes are harvested and send their own team in to do the picking.The wine is crafted à la Lises Crozes, save for the addition of a few used 600-litre casks. The bunch component is similarly around 25% (depending on the vintage), and the wine is released with an additional year of age (bottled unfiltered). 

“Shiny dark red robe; has an elegantly filled nose, crystalline red fruits carrying appeal. The palate opens with aromatic-floral tones, flows smoothly, quality gras central to it. There’s great style to this, it’s very stylish, parades the finesse of Cornas, is Burgundian in its balance and freshness.”
John Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône
Equis Cornas 2020
Equis Saint-Joseph 2021

Equis Saint-Joseph 2021

Equis’ Saint-Joseph is drawn from two parcels on the steep, granitic slopes of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols, the historic heart of Saint-Joseph opposite the hill of Hermitage. Three-quarters of the blend comes from Syrah planted in the 1980s, while the remainder of the vines were planted in the 1950s. The Desbos family organically farms both parcels without herbicides, and both lie on steep gradients that necessitate work by hand and horse only.  The winemakers work with around 20 to 30% whole bunches, and the wine matures for one year in used ex-Burgundy 228-litre oak casks for 11 months, followed by six months in tronconique. Bottled unfiltered, it’s a layered, rocky style of St-Jo, with taut red and blue fruits complemented by crushed stone, dried dark flowers and iron filing nuances. Proper old-school Northern Rhône.

“The nose has a red fruit aroma, raspberry, with a cordite angle, a lit fuse of smokiness. The palate has the upright shape of the vintage, is still a frame that hasn’t filled out, bears almost chewy tannins that require further seasoning. It’s a slow burn, slightly rugged wine this year, patience demanded. It’s certainly correctly rocky on the aftertaste, is for those in the know, to carefully consider and understand it.”
John Livingstone-Learmonth, Drink Rhône
Equis Saint-Joseph 2021
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AT-A-GLANCE

• Domaine des Lises was established in Crozes-Hermitage in 2004 by Maxime Graillot, son of legendary Crozes trailblazer Alain Graillot.

• The estate covers 6.5 hectares of vines in the heart of Crozes, just outside Pont de l’Isere on the famed Chassis plateau.

• The soils are gravelly with alluvial stones and very little clay, vine age is an average of 35-40 years, and farming is organic.

• Maxime also runs his late father’s eponymous domaine, but winemaking differs slightly; here, he favours less bunch, shorter maturations, some concrete vinification and little new oak.

• Domaine des Lises bottles a Crozes-Hermitage Rouge and Blanc, as well as a rare Crozes bottling called Vignes Franches from a small plot of ungrafted vines.

• Maxime also bottles wines under a négoce label, Equis, which includes Crozes-Hermitage, Cornas and Saint-Joseph.



IN THE PRESS

“Outward-looking and motivated, Maxime Graillot is a good receiver of his father`s baton. He is determined to make wine in his own style, emphasizing elegance. This is likely to become well-known and fashionable wine. The Crozes from his own vines is called Domaine des Lises. The two merchant wines from Saint-Joseph and Cornas are sold under the name Equis.” John Livingstone-Learmonth

Country

France

Primary Region

Northern Rhône

People

Winemakers: Maxime Graillot and Thomas Schmittel

Availability

National

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