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This traditional style of sweet wine has been produced in Tokaj for centuries. 1413 is the year the Disznókő vineyard was first mentioned in a land register. The name Szamorodni comes from the Polish meaning ‘as it comes’ or ‘the way it was grown’, and so the bunches come as they are from vineyard to cellar. Unlike the Aszú wines—which have grapes selected berry-by-berry—these bunches are picked whole and contain a mix of very ripe late-harvest grapes, raisined grapes and 20-40% botrytised fruit.
The wine was made similarly to the world-famous wines of Sauternes and aged for at least two years in ex-Sauternes barrels. Szamorodni can be made in two styles—sweet (édes) and dry (száraz). Reflecting the balance in the vineyard, Disznókő’s Szamorodni Édes is a blend of 93% Furmint and 7% Hárslevelű. The wine has 150 g/L residual sugar, balanced by a racy 7 g/L acidity.
This mouth-wateringly racy, delicious wine doesn’t require further aging. In some respects, it is comparable to an Aszú–with flavours of smoky satsuma, caramel, golden raisin, and sandalwood spice with vertical, zingy acidity–but is considerably lighter and less concentrated. Like the Late Harvest, it is supremely flexible at the table. There is so much energy here, with loads of zippy, citrus-charged acidity through the long, spicy, grippy kumquat finish.